Days 22-27
Dia 22: Creel
Today I took my second day off... to write to you guys, etc. I cleaned my bike (the noodle), repaired my leaking stove, washed my clothes....
Dia 23: Creel to Bajisochi, 101.8 kms.
The Hotel Posada folks, Amalia y Luis Enrique wound up being super nice to me. Today I got an early start after breakfast at Lupitas. Made tracks for a while `til I started dropping into the Big Canyons. More inspiring country today. Gorgeous valleys with orchards and simple houses of adobe, brick and wood. Everyone has a wood cook stove and most of the places are occupied with smoke exiting the chimineys. Mostly wild, empty country. I`m in the Tarahumara area now. Instead of saying Hola, it`s "kuira." I made it to Bajisochi about an hour before dark, so I had plenty of time to search for a good camp spot. Found a nice one on a high ridge and had another great sunset.
Dia 24: Bajisochi to Guachochi, 58.3 kms.
Woke up and while lighting my stove, a Tarahumara on horseback rode by on a nearby trail that I hadn`t seen the night before. So much for the private spot! No problem, we just waved at each other and went about our business. Slept well, ate plenty and felt great to ride, but I don`t want to go beyond Guachochi w'o stocking up and re-charging my energy as the next stretch looks a little daunting. 197 kms on the map w only 1 pueblo showing at 98 kms. At least it`s half way. Today was mildly hilly and mostly down although I encountered my first meaningful headwind. The last 2 days have been hazy, which makes me wonder if there`s a fire somewhere in the region.... I`ve seen very little evidence of fire, even though it`s very dry. In fact I`ve had no rain since leaving over 3 weeks ago. Found a room here for 160 pesos ($16) with a little boy named Mario who was full of curiousity and wanted to ride my bike. I let him sit on it and took his pic. I`m still in the big pines here near the Sinforosa. It`s the rim of the deepest canyon in the region, more than 6,000 ft deep! I went there last month w some of the other mechanics so I`m not going this time. It`s 17 k of terrible road and I`m too lazy to change my tires. I`m not making as much ground as I thought I would. It`s because this canyon country is so steep and slow going on the "Noodle." Physically, I feel fine although tired at times. It`s hard to eat enough for all the calories I`m burning. I`d really like to take a slower pace, but I want to get to Costa Rica by early Jan....
Dia 25: Guachochi to Balleza, 113.8 kms.
New top speed! 70.8 km la hora. Today, I dropped off the Sierra Tarahumara. Big winds at my back! Was a bit sketchy at times when I crossed over ridge tops and switchbacks. It's still amazingly scenic, although I`m now in the desert again. Live oaks w desert scrub, etc. Dead grasses everywhere as it's the dry season. It rains in June, July, August. Last night, I stayed at the hotel Mansion. The name does not fit! The heater is out of gas, so I have to dry my clothes on the roof. This was fine til it started to rain at 5AM. I went out, retreived my clothes and stowed the noodle under cover. Went back to bed, kind of. I was worried about the rain and cold, which is what I encountered as I left Guachochi. The rain stopped and the cycling was again phenomenal w curvacious roads w'o effort due to the downhill tailwind. I guess I must have paid my dues somewhere along the line..... Found a great campspot again, private w plenty of firewood. Stocked up in Balleza w good food which I'm cooking as I write. Big sky sunset, growing moon and another nice campfire... Wish you were here!!!
Dia 26: Balleza to Parral, 88.9 kms.
Met Roberto Sanchez on my way into town. He recommended the Hotel Fe. Up and down - mellow to start until I reached Puerto Justo, where the pavement turned to mierda and the traffic increased. Had to dismount and get off the road a few times as whenever 2 large vehicles meet at the same spot as me, something has got to give. 8 km from Parral the road improved and I cruised in early. Went to find my friends from Yecora, Francisco and Mingo to see if they had room for me, which they didn't. Tried to call Olivia and Lourdes, my friends from La Vuelta a Chihuahua, but her number was wrong.... Found the cheapest hotel yet 58 pesos ($5.80). It was barely worth the price as it turned out to be loud and illicit. Met Rosi...
Dia 27: Parral to La Resolana, 138.1 kms.
Entered the state of Durango today. At the state line, I met Lorenzo, who sold me good food and then gifted me more. He was very friendly and interested in my trip and then more friendly people showed up to support me. We took pix and I cruised into Durango. Last night, I made the mistake of staying at the cheapest hotel in "El centro" de Parral. The prostitutes pestered me to "echar el palo" $20. They were all so skanky!!! Felt uncomfortable and left town early to make some good kms. I think it's my biggest day so far... The terrain has flattened out a lot, but the wind was mild and no factor. Stopped for dinner makings in a nice little puebluito named Torreon de Cañas. Saw like 10 beautiful girls there in less than a half hour! The proprietor of the store there where I stopped was kind and gave me a cold Gatorade. Nicest tienda I've been in yet. Great produce and cold beer! Met a vaquero outsite the tienda who had been to our Durango. Everybody there was interested in my trip and friendly. Got inspected at the military checkpoint this time... no problem! Had a race w a couple young boys on horseback that pushed me a long for a couple f Km. One asked me, in english "Where you from?" Everyone wants to know where I`m going and where I`m from. So far, the road has been 2 lane, no shoulder, but hardly any traffic. So nice!
Today I took my second day off... to write to you guys, etc. I cleaned my bike (the noodle), repaired my leaking stove, washed my clothes....
Dia 23: Creel to Bajisochi, 101.8 kms.
The Hotel Posada folks, Amalia y Luis Enrique wound up being super nice to me. Today I got an early start after breakfast at Lupitas. Made tracks for a while `til I started dropping into the Big Canyons. More inspiring country today. Gorgeous valleys with orchards and simple houses of adobe, brick and wood. Everyone has a wood cook stove and most of the places are occupied with smoke exiting the chimineys. Mostly wild, empty country. I`m in the Tarahumara area now. Instead of saying Hola, it`s "kuira." I made it to Bajisochi about an hour before dark, so I had plenty of time to search for a good camp spot. Found a nice one on a high ridge and had another great sunset.
Dia 24: Bajisochi to Guachochi, 58.3 kms.
Woke up and while lighting my stove, a Tarahumara on horseback rode by on a nearby trail that I hadn`t seen the night before. So much for the private spot! No problem, we just waved at each other and went about our business. Slept well, ate plenty and felt great to ride, but I don`t want to go beyond Guachochi w'o stocking up and re-charging my energy as the next stretch looks a little daunting. 197 kms on the map w only 1 pueblo showing at 98 kms. At least it`s half way. Today was mildly hilly and mostly down although I encountered my first meaningful headwind. The last 2 days have been hazy, which makes me wonder if there`s a fire somewhere in the region.... I`ve seen very little evidence of fire, even though it`s very dry. In fact I`ve had no rain since leaving over 3 weeks ago. Found a room here for 160 pesos ($16) with a little boy named Mario who was full of curiousity and wanted to ride my bike. I let him sit on it and took his pic. I`m still in the big pines here near the Sinforosa. It`s the rim of the deepest canyon in the region, more than 6,000 ft deep! I went there last month w some of the other mechanics so I`m not going this time. It`s 17 k of terrible road and I`m too lazy to change my tires. I`m not making as much ground as I thought I would. It`s because this canyon country is so steep and slow going on the "Noodle." Physically, I feel fine although tired at times. It`s hard to eat enough for all the calories I`m burning. I`d really like to take a slower pace, but I want to get to Costa Rica by early Jan....
Dia 25: Guachochi to Balleza, 113.8 kms.
New top speed! 70.8 km la hora. Today, I dropped off the Sierra Tarahumara. Big winds at my back! Was a bit sketchy at times when I crossed over ridge tops and switchbacks. It's still amazingly scenic, although I`m now in the desert again. Live oaks w desert scrub, etc. Dead grasses everywhere as it's the dry season. It rains in June, July, August. Last night, I stayed at the hotel Mansion. The name does not fit! The heater is out of gas, so I have to dry my clothes on the roof. This was fine til it started to rain at 5AM. I went out, retreived my clothes and stowed the noodle under cover. Went back to bed, kind of. I was worried about the rain and cold, which is what I encountered as I left Guachochi. The rain stopped and the cycling was again phenomenal w curvacious roads w'o effort due to the downhill tailwind. I guess I must have paid my dues somewhere along the line..... Found a great campspot again, private w plenty of firewood. Stocked up in Balleza w good food which I'm cooking as I write. Big sky sunset, growing moon and another nice campfire... Wish you were here!!!
Dia 26: Balleza to Parral, 88.9 kms.
Met Roberto Sanchez on my way into town. He recommended the Hotel Fe. Up and down - mellow to start until I reached Puerto Justo, where the pavement turned to mierda and the traffic increased. Had to dismount and get off the road a few times as whenever 2 large vehicles meet at the same spot as me, something has got to give. 8 km from Parral the road improved and I cruised in early. Went to find my friends from Yecora, Francisco and Mingo to see if they had room for me, which they didn't. Tried to call Olivia and Lourdes, my friends from La Vuelta a Chihuahua, but her number was wrong.... Found the cheapest hotel yet 58 pesos ($5.80). It was barely worth the price as it turned out to be loud and illicit. Met Rosi...
Dia 27: Parral to La Resolana, 138.1 kms.
Entered the state of Durango today. At the state line, I met Lorenzo, who sold me good food and then gifted me more. He was very friendly and interested in my trip and then more friendly people showed up to support me. We took pix and I cruised into Durango. Last night, I made the mistake of staying at the cheapest hotel in "El centro" de Parral. The prostitutes pestered me to "echar el palo" $20. They were all so skanky!!! Felt uncomfortable and left town early to make some good kms. I think it's my biggest day so far... The terrain has flattened out a lot, but the wind was mild and no factor. Stopped for dinner makings in a nice little puebluito named Torreon de Cañas. Saw like 10 beautiful girls there in less than a half hour! The proprietor of the store there where I stopped was kind and gave me a cold Gatorade. Nicest tienda I've been in yet. Great produce and cold beer! Met a vaquero outsite the tienda who had been to our Durango. Everybody there was interested in my trip and friendly. Got inspected at the military checkpoint this time... no problem! Had a race w a couple young boys on horseback that pushed me a long for a couple f Km. One asked me, in english "Where you from?" Everyone wants to know where I`m going and where I`m from. So far, the road has been 2 lane, no shoulder, but hardly any traffic. So nice!
posted by Bicycle Bob at
6:05 PM
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