Days 31-33
Dia 31: Durango to Zacatecas, 42 kms.
Last night went to bed a bit (lot) concerned about my choice of route. That stinkin' 50 k yesterday was a nightmare! The map shows only one road from here to Zacatecas, and it's the same freakin' road as yesterday. Pondered the wisdom of continuing on this road, or perhaps looking at the coastal route. Anyway, my intuition led me in the right direction and I've chosen to stay on Mex 45. Stopped for breakfast at a roadside food vendor and a big truck pulled up. Had to move the noodle to make room for him to park. The driver and his worker got out and we started talking. As you know, everyone wants to know where I'm going, etc. I told them I'm headed for Zacatecas and they asked, "on the bike?" I said yes, of course! They began to warn me in 3 part harmony about how dangerous this stretch of road is. I asked about an alternate route to Zac. and they replied, "None." The driver offered to throw my bike on top of his load and take me there. I graciously declined. He practically insisted as his helper and the woman who owned the food stand began to tell me about how many fatalities this road is responsible for. W-o further thought, I accepted his offer to take me to Zacatecas, 300 kms to the southeast. You know it's unlike me to travel this way, but I prefer to survive this trip and after seeing the section of "hell road," I'm happy I took the ride. Live to ride another day.... the woman at the food stand's name is Maricela and she gave me a scorpion mojo for protection. It's now mounted on the noodle, along with my custom spoke card. A huge bonus to accepting this ride is that I made a great new friend. Carlos, the driver and I had an awesome conversation for the next 4 hours about all kinds of topics. I learned a lot about life in Mexico. If you want, you can come here and bust your ass for 12 hours a day to make 100 pesos ($10.) Carlos also, being a trucker, knew about all the roads I'm considering and had plenty of recommendations. I got out with 35 k to go to Zacatecas as the road widened and I wanted the opportunity to call my friend Juan and give him warning of my early arrival. Juan and his wife Hilda are putting my up for 2 nights. They fed me beers and dinner as we checked out the cyclery website. Juan was Lance Armstrong's personal mechanic for years. I met him in the Vuelta a Chihuahua. More super-fine people! We`re off to "el centro" to check out the historic district. Zacatecas was founded in the early 1500's, has stone roads and monstrous cathedrals much more impressive than Durango, Dgo. And we think our Durango is old!!!!!
Dia 32: Zacatecas, 0 kms.
Wow, what a beautiful city! I'm floored that I've never met anyone who's spoken of this marvelous place. Don't have enough $$$ to travel to Europe? Than come to central Mexico! It's reminiscent of old Europe. The city center is well preserved (no McDonalds! or other gringo garbage vendors). Stone roads with incredible colonial architecture. Rich gold and silver mines funded the construction. the Spanish must have really pumped some wealth out of this place! We visited the mtn above the city, named "La Bufa." It makes an eerie sound when the wind blows hard. We heard it while we were there. We went on to visit some amazing pre-Columbian ruins named "La Quemada" that makes Chaco canyon look small. Different masonry style than our Anazazi, huge in scope, I'll show you the pix someday... the aquaduct, the bullfighting ring, this place deserves a return visit....
Dia 33: Zacatecas to San Luis Potosi, almost 170 kms.
Early start after a monster breakfast at Juan and Hilda`s place. I call it the "Hotel Lujan." Churros, toast, eggs, coffee, good rest and an awesome experience in Zacatecas. Today's ride started w' a big shoulder, 4 lanes and very little traffic. I even had a stretch for awhile where 2 lanes were closed to traffic, I shredded it joyfully. Then I hit the supposed 40 km section of 2 lane. "The Gnarl Zone." It wasn't quite as bad as the stretch north of Durango, but almost. Instead of maybe 16' of width, it was like 17'6". Whoopie! It only tempted me to actually ride it in 2 way traffic.... Had to dive at least 50 times to save my hide! At times, I ride the dirt doubletrack beside the highway to calm my nerves. Even had a nice section of singletrack today. So much better than running "The Gauntlet." So glad I chose to use these Conti Top contact tires. Thanks Wade!! No flats so far this side of the border!! Had 3 in los estados unidos.... I was maybe half way through the 40 k of hell, when I pulled over to fill my H2O bottles from my nalgene. Instantly, a trucker appeared, offering to fill my bottles. His name is Francisco. I got his pic. He wants to be in my story. There you go, Francisco! You're in. He told me no more than 8 k more of the "Hell Road." 24 k later, the 4- lane started again. I rode the closed section for another 30 k or so until all 4 lanes were open. At this point, there was an actual bike lane in the middle with a sign, "Solo Ciclistas." Crazy, strong, gusty sidewind today that tried to steer me into traffic..... At times I was leaning at a heavy angle to compensate. Bought beer and food supplies and rode on to look for a good campsite to enjoy the full moon. Ate well, drank 4 beers, howled at the moon, and went to sleep...
Last night went to bed a bit (lot) concerned about my choice of route. That stinkin' 50 k yesterday was a nightmare! The map shows only one road from here to Zacatecas, and it's the same freakin' road as yesterday. Pondered the wisdom of continuing on this road, or perhaps looking at the coastal route. Anyway, my intuition led me in the right direction and I've chosen to stay on Mex 45. Stopped for breakfast at a roadside food vendor and a big truck pulled up. Had to move the noodle to make room for him to park. The driver and his worker got out and we started talking. As you know, everyone wants to know where I'm going, etc. I told them I'm headed for Zacatecas and they asked, "on the bike?" I said yes, of course! They began to warn me in 3 part harmony about how dangerous this stretch of road is. I asked about an alternate route to Zac. and they replied, "None." The driver offered to throw my bike on top of his load and take me there. I graciously declined. He practically insisted as his helper and the woman who owned the food stand began to tell me about how many fatalities this road is responsible for. W-o further thought, I accepted his offer to take me to Zacatecas, 300 kms to the southeast. You know it's unlike me to travel this way, but I prefer to survive this trip and after seeing the section of "hell road," I'm happy I took the ride. Live to ride another day.... the woman at the food stand's name is Maricela and she gave me a scorpion mojo for protection. It's now mounted on the noodle, along with my custom spoke card. A huge bonus to accepting this ride is that I made a great new friend. Carlos, the driver and I had an awesome conversation for the next 4 hours about all kinds of topics. I learned a lot about life in Mexico. If you want, you can come here and bust your ass for 12 hours a day to make 100 pesos ($10.) Carlos also, being a trucker, knew about all the roads I'm considering and had plenty of recommendations. I got out with 35 k to go to Zacatecas as the road widened and I wanted the opportunity to call my friend Juan and give him warning of my early arrival. Juan and his wife Hilda are putting my up for 2 nights. They fed me beers and dinner as we checked out the cyclery website. Juan was Lance Armstrong's personal mechanic for years. I met him in the Vuelta a Chihuahua. More super-fine people! We`re off to "el centro" to check out the historic district. Zacatecas was founded in the early 1500's, has stone roads and monstrous cathedrals much more impressive than Durango, Dgo. And we think our Durango is old!!!!!
Dia 32: Zacatecas, 0 kms.
Wow, what a beautiful city! I'm floored that I've never met anyone who's spoken of this marvelous place. Don't have enough $$$ to travel to Europe? Than come to central Mexico! It's reminiscent of old Europe. The city center is well preserved (no McDonalds! or other gringo garbage vendors). Stone roads with incredible colonial architecture. Rich gold and silver mines funded the construction. the Spanish must have really pumped some wealth out of this place! We visited the mtn above the city, named "La Bufa." It makes an eerie sound when the wind blows hard. We heard it while we were there. We went on to visit some amazing pre-Columbian ruins named "La Quemada" that makes Chaco canyon look small. Different masonry style than our Anazazi, huge in scope, I'll show you the pix someday... the aquaduct, the bullfighting ring, this place deserves a return visit....
Dia 33: Zacatecas to San Luis Potosi, almost 170 kms.
Early start after a monster breakfast at Juan and Hilda`s place. I call it the "Hotel Lujan." Churros, toast, eggs, coffee, good rest and an awesome experience in Zacatecas. Today's ride started w' a big shoulder, 4 lanes and very little traffic. I even had a stretch for awhile where 2 lanes were closed to traffic, I shredded it joyfully. Then I hit the supposed 40 km section of 2 lane. "The Gnarl Zone." It wasn't quite as bad as the stretch north of Durango, but almost. Instead of maybe 16' of width, it was like 17'6". Whoopie! It only tempted me to actually ride it in 2 way traffic.... Had to dive at least 50 times to save my hide! At times, I ride the dirt doubletrack beside the highway to calm my nerves. Even had a nice section of singletrack today. So much better than running "The Gauntlet." So glad I chose to use these Conti Top contact tires. Thanks Wade!! No flats so far this side of the border!! Had 3 in los estados unidos.... I was maybe half way through the 40 k of hell, when I pulled over to fill my H2O bottles from my nalgene. Instantly, a trucker appeared, offering to fill my bottles. His name is Francisco. I got his pic. He wants to be in my story. There you go, Francisco! You're in. He told me no more than 8 k more of the "Hell Road." 24 k later, the 4- lane started again. I rode the closed section for another 30 k or so until all 4 lanes were open. At this point, there was an actual bike lane in the middle with a sign, "Solo Ciclistas." Crazy, strong, gusty sidewind today that tried to steer me into traffic..... At times I was leaning at a heavy angle to compensate. Bought beer and food supplies and rode on to look for a good campsite to enjoy the full moon. Ate well, drank 4 beers, howled at the moon, and went to sleep...
posted by Bicycle Bob at
6:11 PM
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