Days 37-39
Dia 37: San Juan del Rio to Nopala, 62 kms.
What a diference from yesterday! Last night I decided to change course and forget about trying to visit Mexico City. Picked a new route and woke up refreshed and relieved that I wasn't going to return to "the big road." I've got an awesome book of maps that are quite detailed. I'm stinkin' done with the interstates and the red roads, and will now concentrate on the skinny yellow roads, which are the most primitive. The frenetic pace of the big roads has steered me this way, or is my guardian angel responsable? Anyway, I must comment on how ridiculous it is to receive directions in Mexico. Everyone answers as if they know exactly which way I should go, even if they have no clue! I guess they don't want to appear clueless, so they make up answers to my inquiries. I've taken to asking 4, 5, or 6 people which way until I get a consensus. The most extreme example to date occured this AM. While leaving San Juan, I'd already received a consensus, but decided to ask a street vendor, who was selling I don't know what on the very street that I was asking for, Calle Universidad. She looked puzzled (a sure clue!) She tried to send me down the road another km! I turned anyway and asked another person to confirm. Yes, this is the way to "El Sitio." I was warned by several people that the road to El Sitio was a hard climb, and they were right. The good news is that as soon as I reached the edge of San Juan, the traffic stopped altogther. What a relief!!! In El Sitio, the road turned to rock. Nicely laid out in a pattern, but not cut stone. It was grapefruit sized and was rattling my bones. Many wares are advertised via microfone, with the speaker attached to the roof of a truck. While on my way out of Dodge, I listened to a fruit salesman who announced his produce with prices in song. It was quite entertaining and I needed to replenish, so I stopped him and asked to make a purchase. His name was Francisco and we wound up talking for about a half hour. I chose some oranges, mandarines, guayabas etc. and he refused payment. I asked about the road surface and he informed me that he only knew the road as far as Tlaxcalilla, which was 10 km down the road. He´d never been any farther than that even though he lived there all his life! It was the rock road he told me, so I stopped under a shade tree and changed to my fat tires. Much better!! I wound up missing the unmarked turn to Tlaxcalilla and landed in El Carmen, which placed me on one of the dreaded red roads for the next 20 km. The red jobbers are the 2 laners without any shoulder whatsoever. Tractor trailers use these roads, even double trailers and when 2 meet at the same moment as I, I have to dive. It wasn't so bad, cause I had my fatties on... Also, sometimes there's a double track that I can shred happily. Stopped in Llano Largo for lunch and had an excellent barbecued chicken, served up by another nice family. Just as in the states, the cities are impersonal. I´m so glad to be back in the country, where the air is good and the locals are friendly. Excuse me, it´s dinner time................... OK, I´m back. Good soup. Washed down with my favorite 100% Agave beverage! Now, I´m pretty kicked back... back to the story, I stocked up in Nopala and cruised to look for a good camp. About 5km later, there it was in the middle of a corn field, a little storage shed protected by stone walls and corn stalks. I´m under a roof tonight, which is comforting as I´m watching various t-storms in the distance. Saw a sweet shooting star in the N sky. So great to be camping again!!
Dia 38: Nopala to Atitalaquia, 62 kms.
Woke up to a thick fog, so I lingered at camp, cooked another hearty breakfast, then sailed as the sun broke through. Passed through lots of picturesque villages on my new chosen route toward Pachuca. As I asked directions, people kept asking me if I was headed to Tula, which I wasn´t. I finally thought to ask "why, what's in Tula?" Was told of the ancient Toltec pyramid and temples and decided to change course again. On to Tula! This will allow me to also visit Teotihuacan, which has even more famous archeology. Today, at a confusing, unmarked intersection in the middle of nowhere, I met a campesino walking down the road. We greeted and I asked him which way. He told me, we talked a bit, and as I began to ride off, he said "the least we can do is to be helpful to one another." It reminded me of another old vendor I encountered back in Santa Maria del Rio. We exchanged good mornings as he nodded in approval at my mode of travel. Then, he added, "if we all used less, there'd be more for everyone." Wisdom is not limited to the educated... Later as I neared Tula, I saw a bunch of bicycles that reminded me of Bailey's stack in front of the "Project." I did a double-take and saw the bike shop which was hidden around the corner. The proprietor saw me and waved me in. I whirled and parked the noodle in line with another of his many stacks of bikes. His name is Arturo Martinez and the first thing he said was "cycling is really beautiful." We agreed that it was too bad that more people don't realize how awesome it is to ride a bike. I told him my story and he proudly showed me his shop. He lent me a rag and filled my lube bottle with 3 in 1 oil and refused payment. I rode on to Tula and found the entrance to the Toltec site. Met some folks on the way in and of course had to tell my story again. The guard at the entrance also had to know the story. The folks I'd just met raved about my adventure and I was given a free pass. Are you beginning to see a pattern here? The site was stunning! 3 massive pyramids dating as far back as the 3rd century. After leaving Tula, the route to the small road was confusing, so I stopped and asked a man which way. His wife immediately ran out and offered me a cold drink. They clearly explained the way. They ran an electrical parts store, which they invited me into as they introduced me to their baby daughter. While there, I noticed that they sold 3mm nylon twine, which I needed as I´d lost mine somewhere. I ordered up 12 meters. They also refused payment and made me take another cold drink as I left! I rode on to Atitalaquia to look for a room as I needed to wash clothes and my butt´s sore.
Dia 39: Atitalaquia to Teotihuacan, 70 kms.
The road out of town is another one of those nasty 2-laner types. Not my favorite! Good thing I´ve kept my fatties on as I can get creative whenever necessary (often!). As usual, I'm meeting mostly nice people who are giving me thumbs up. I wonder if this means "fxxx you!" in Mexico! Just kidding... While passing through a pueblo, a motorist made a cycling motion and nodded approval. Later, I saw this same guy stopped at the edge of town and he again smiled and waved. Later, while entering the next pueblo, here he was again, standing near the top of a climb, handing me up a bottle of cold gatorade. Of course, I stopped to tell him "the story." He had a couple of buddies with him and they told me they are mountain bikers and work in a shop in the previous town. They want me to return so they can show me all their favorite rides. They told me of a massive hot spring that creates a river which is on one of their rides. We parted ways and I rode on to Zumpango, where I stopped for tacos. As almost always, the vendors asked the obvious questions... their customers also were curious. I overdid it on the chilies (habaneros) and sweated and cried as I told "the story" for the umpteenth time. They told me I am the first travelling cyclist they'd ever seen there. Cool, I beat the Euros!! I asked the price and they refused. The generosity in this area of Mexico is crazy!! So, I moved on toward Teotihuacan... Arrived at the main gate and actually had to pay! Further in, another gate where I was told, "No Bicycles." I tried to explain that my life is hanging on this bicycle and I can't just leave it unattended in the parking lot with so many people around. He motioned me to leave if I didn't like the rules here. He was the first asshole I've met in Mexico! The vendors told me "just leave it over there," while licking their chops. So I went to the administration building to see if I could stash my bike there. At this gate, another policeman said, "No Way!" Asshole number 2! Returned to the main gate to ask them if I could leave my bike inside the guard house. "No. You can leave it over there," as they motioned toward the fence. Numbers 3 and 4!!! It´s an asshole epidemic! So I convinced them to give me a refund (they didn't want to, but finally gave in). I rode on to look for another entry gate and found one a km up the road. As I rode up, the guard, who was accompanied by another policeman, began by asking me "the questions." I answered with "the story," and we talked for awhile with no mention of an entry fee. After 10-15 minutes of chatting and laughing, I asked, "How much?" "Oh, no, no, for you, it´s free!" Then they insisted on pictures with me and of me as I tried to pry myself away to get a closer look at the magnificent pyramids. I entered with my noodle at my side... After checking out the site, I rode on to San Martin, where I asked if there was good place to camp around here. They replied "sure, right over there, where we work." It was literally in the shadow of one of the pyramids. It also was near a building which wound up being the police station, where I introduced myself to the cops (thank god the assholes weren´t there!) It began to rain hard, so the cops invited me to stay under a tarp where they kept all their bicycles. I felt right at home! Stayed mostly dry, and slept with the stray dogs, which are everywhere in Mexico. During the night, as new cops came on duty, they'd come out to hear "the story," which I´m getting really good at telling. I have another page written for this day, but I´ll spare you. This trip is so much more than a bicycle ride to Costa Rica!!!!!
What a diference from yesterday! Last night I decided to change course and forget about trying to visit Mexico City. Picked a new route and woke up refreshed and relieved that I wasn't going to return to "the big road." I've got an awesome book of maps that are quite detailed. I'm stinkin' done with the interstates and the red roads, and will now concentrate on the skinny yellow roads, which are the most primitive. The frenetic pace of the big roads has steered me this way, or is my guardian angel responsable? Anyway, I must comment on how ridiculous it is to receive directions in Mexico. Everyone answers as if they know exactly which way I should go, even if they have no clue! I guess they don't want to appear clueless, so they make up answers to my inquiries. I've taken to asking 4, 5, or 6 people which way until I get a consensus. The most extreme example to date occured this AM. While leaving San Juan, I'd already received a consensus, but decided to ask a street vendor, who was selling I don't know what on the very street that I was asking for, Calle Universidad. She looked puzzled (a sure clue!) She tried to send me down the road another km! I turned anyway and asked another person to confirm. Yes, this is the way to "El Sitio." I was warned by several people that the road to El Sitio was a hard climb, and they were right. The good news is that as soon as I reached the edge of San Juan, the traffic stopped altogther. What a relief!!! In El Sitio, the road turned to rock. Nicely laid out in a pattern, but not cut stone. It was grapefruit sized and was rattling my bones. Many wares are advertised via microfone, with the speaker attached to the roof of a truck. While on my way out of Dodge, I listened to a fruit salesman who announced his produce with prices in song. It was quite entertaining and I needed to replenish, so I stopped him and asked to make a purchase. His name was Francisco and we wound up talking for about a half hour. I chose some oranges, mandarines, guayabas etc. and he refused payment. I asked about the road surface and he informed me that he only knew the road as far as Tlaxcalilla, which was 10 km down the road. He´d never been any farther than that even though he lived there all his life! It was the rock road he told me, so I stopped under a shade tree and changed to my fat tires. Much better!! I wound up missing the unmarked turn to Tlaxcalilla and landed in El Carmen, which placed me on one of the dreaded red roads for the next 20 km. The red jobbers are the 2 laners without any shoulder whatsoever. Tractor trailers use these roads, even double trailers and when 2 meet at the same moment as I, I have to dive. It wasn't so bad, cause I had my fatties on... Also, sometimes there's a double track that I can shred happily. Stopped in Llano Largo for lunch and had an excellent barbecued chicken, served up by another nice family. Just as in the states, the cities are impersonal. I´m so glad to be back in the country, where the air is good and the locals are friendly. Excuse me, it´s dinner time................... OK, I´m back. Good soup. Washed down with my favorite 100% Agave beverage! Now, I´m pretty kicked back... back to the story, I stocked up in Nopala and cruised to look for a good camp. About 5km later, there it was in the middle of a corn field, a little storage shed protected by stone walls and corn stalks. I´m under a roof tonight, which is comforting as I´m watching various t-storms in the distance. Saw a sweet shooting star in the N sky. So great to be camping again!!
Dia 38: Nopala to Atitalaquia, 62 kms.
Woke up to a thick fog, so I lingered at camp, cooked another hearty breakfast, then sailed as the sun broke through. Passed through lots of picturesque villages on my new chosen route toward Pachuca. As I asked directions, people kept asking me if I was headed to Tula, which I wasn´t. I finally thought to ask "why, what's in Tula?" Was told of the ancient Toltec pyramid and temples and decided to change course again. On to Tula! This will allow me to also visit Teotihuacan, which has even more famous archeology. Today, at a confusing, unmarked intersection in the middle of nowhere, I met a campesino walking down the road. We greeted and I asked him which way. He told me, we talked a bit, and as I began to ride off, he said "the least we can do is to be helpful to one another." It reminded me of another old vendor I encountered back in Santa Maria del Rio. We exchanged good mornings as he nodded in approval at my mode of travel. Then, he added, "if we all used less, there'd be more for everyone." Wisdom is not limited to the educated... Later as I neared Tula, I saw a bunch of bicycles that reminded me of Bailey's stack in front of the "Project." I did a double-take and saw the bike shop which was hidden around the corner. The proprietor saw me and waved me in. I whirled and parked the noodle in line with another of his many stacks of bikes. His name is Arturo Martinez and the first thing he said was "cycling is really beautiful." We agreed that it was too bad that more people don't realize how awesome it is to ride a bike. I told him my story and he proudly showed me his shop. He lent me a rag and filled my lube bottle with 3 in 1 oil and refused payment. I rode on to Tula and found the entrance to the Toltec site. Met some folks on the way in and of course had to tell my story again. The guard at the entrance also had to know the story. The folks I'd just met raved about my adventure and I was given a free pass. Are you beginning to see a pattern here? The site was stunning! 3 massive pyramids dating as far back as the 3rd century. After leaving Tula, the route to the small road was confusing, so I stopped and asked a man which way. His wife immediately ran out and offered me a cold drink. They clearly explained the way. They ran an electrical parts store, which they invited me into as they introduced me to their baby daughter. While there, I noticed that they sold 3mm nylon twine, which I needed as I´d lost mine somewhere. I ordered up 12 meters. They also refused payment and made me take another cold drink as I left! I rode on to Atitalaquia to look for a room as I needed to wash clothes and my butt´s sore.
Dia 39: Atitalaquia to Teotihuacan, 70 kms.
The road out of town is another one of those nasty 2-laner types. Not my favorite! Good thing I´ve kept my fatties on as I can get creative whenever necessary (often!). As usual, I'm meeting mostly nice people who are giving me thumbs up. I wonder if this means "fxxx you!" in Mexico! Just kidding... While passing through a pueblo, a motorist made a cycling motion and nodded approval. Later, I saw this same guy stopped at the edge of town and he again smiled and waved. Later, while entering the next pueblo, here he was again, standing near the top of a climb, handing me up a bottle of cold gatorade. Of course, I stopped to tell him "the story." He had a couple of buddies with him and they told me they are mountain bikers and work in a shop in the previous town. They want me to return so they can show me all their favorite rides. They told me of a massive hot spring that creates a river which is on one of their rides. We parted ways and I rode on to Zumpango, where I stopped for tacos. As almost always, the vendors asked the obvious questions... their customers also were curious. I overdid it on the chilies (habaneros) and sweated and cried as I told "the story" for the umpteenth time. They told me I am the first travelling cyclist they'd ever seen there. Cool, I beat the Euros!! I asked the price and they refused. The generosity in this area of Mexico is crazy!! So, I moved on toward Teotihuacan... Arrived at the main gate and actually had to pay! Further in, another gate where I was told, "No Bicycles." I tried to explain that my life is hanging on this bicycle and I can't just leave it unattended in the parking lot with so many people around. He motioned me to leave if I didn't like the rules here. He was the first asshole I've met in Mexico! The vendors told me "just leave it over there," while licking their chops. So I went to the administration building to see if I could stash my bike there. At this gate, another policeman said, "No Way!" Asshole number 2! Returned to the main gate to ask them if I could leave my bike inside the guard house. "No. You can leave it over there," as they motioned toward the fence. Numbers 3 and 4!!! It´s an asshole epidemic! So I convinced them to give me a refund (they didn't want to, but finally gave in). I rode on to look for another entry gate and found one a km up the road. As I rode up, the guard, who was accompanied by another policeman, began by asking me "the questions." I answered with "the story," and we talked for awhile with no mention of an entry fee. After 10-15 minutes of chatting and laughing, I asked, "How much?" "Oh, no, no, for you, it´s free!" Then they insisted on pictures with me and of me as I tried to pry myself away to get a closer look at the magnificent pyramids. I entered with my noodle at my side... After checking out the site, I rode on to San Martin, where I asked if there was good place to camp around here. They replied "sure, right over there, where we work." It was literally in the shadow of one of the pyramids. It also was near a building which wound up being the police station, where I introduced myself to the cops (thank god the assholes weren´t there!) It began to rain hard, so the cops invited me to stay under a tarp where they kept all their bicycles. I felt right at home! Stayed mostly dry, and slept with the stray dogs, which are everywhere in Mexico. During the night, as new cops came on duty, they'd come out to hear "the story," which I´m getting really good at telling. I have another page written for this day, but I´ll spare you. This trip is so much more than a bicycle ride to Costa Rica!!!!!
posted by Bicycle Bob at
6:16 PM
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