Days 40-45
Dia 40: Teotihaucan to Atan, 61 kms
My km count has dropped... and I don´t care!! It´s not about time or distance anymore. I´m just choosing my route by studying the map and conferring with "la Gente." It´s working so well! I´ve met some fantastic people, seen some awesome sites and even done a little bikin' in my spare time! I meet the people often by asking directions. "Which way to Atan?"
Today, some dudes (Gueyes) in Tepeapulco asked me if I knew about the pyramid near there. Of course, I didn´t, so they told me where it was. One guy said, it´s 15 km that way, the other responded, "¡Este guey esta llena de mierda!) That guy´s full of shit, it´s only 4-5 km. Since I´m resigned to a slower pace, I thought, Why not? It was out of my way, but I don´t care anymore, remember? On the way, I passed a really well kept property with a tree nursery near the road. I waved at the man as I passed, thinking, I´ll bet that´s an interesting person.....The next turn was to the pyramid at Xihuingo, which wound up being a few more kms on a gnarly dirt road. Well worth the shred, as the Pyramid was remote and beautiful, surrounded by mountains. It dates back to the 2nd century and has the remnants of an ancient roadway leading directly to Teotihacan. Portions of the original red stucco have survived the centuries. I think it´s my favorite site so far, as I had it all to myself and was able to feel the history.... On my way back by the nursery, I noticed the man I´d waved to earlier. He was busy potting a plant, so I rang my bell and he instantly waved me over. He invited me in for fruit and water and I accepted, as I just had a feeling that this guy was cool. He was interested in my trip and we had a fantastic converstion about everything while I chomped some of his homegrown fruit and drank his water from a clay pot. We wound up spending a couple of hours talking while he showed me around his property. He rescues trees and plants and nurtures them back to health. He´s filled his yard with an assortment of flowers, fruits and native plant species and is a self-taught expert on local flora. Not a spec of garbage either on his property or along the roadway in front. He also knew volumes about the pyramid culture. Turns out, we´re the same age and had lots in common. I now have another great friend, who invited me to stay as long as I like. He gave me a lifetime invitation to return to "mi casa." I really hope to. Made it to Apan, another old colonial city.
Dia 41: Atan to Santa Ana de Chiautempan, 66 kms
Stayed in a hotel last night and met the proprietor, a woman from Spain who invited to take me into town for dinner. We returned to the hotel and drank some tequila. She made me promise I´d go inside the old church tomorrow on my way out of town. So, I arrived at the church to be greeted by a group of folks cooking all kinds of super good food. Mass was in session, so I was their only customer for awhile. They got my well-practiced story, as they offered coffee, arroz con leche, and everything else that they so proudly had prepared for the soon to arrive congregation. I went inside to keep my promise and WOW! The church dates to 1607 and is elabarately decorated with solid gold. The courtyard filled with folks as mass ended and I paid up and boogied on toward Tlazcala... Yesterday, on my descent toward Apan, I caught a smoggy glimpse on 2 of Mexico´s largest volcanoes. Today, with the wind out of the east, the view was clear, and what a view!! I rode to a point where all 4 of the large volcanoes were in sight. Popocatepetl and Iztaccoihuatl to the west and Orizaba and Malinche to the east. 3 of 4 were snowcapped with Popo smoking and belching. It was so beautiful, I finally just stopped, hung my hammock, and took it all in....I´m writing this from my hammock. After a couple of hours of good rest, I cruised on into Tlaxcala to find Rodrigo´s and Guadalupe´s families. Really good vibe here, on the way in, a nice couple in a VW stopped me to talk. Lot´s less garbage. They invited me to stay with them, if I could´t locate the families. Rodrigo´s daughter-in-law answered when I called and said yes, they were expecting me and had plenty of room for me as long as I liked. As I´m really stinkin´tired, I´m gonna stay for a few days... I´ve been welcomed, fed, and given my own room here in Rodrigo´s house. I tryed to tell them that I can sleep on the roof in my sleeping bag, but they insisted on treating me like a king. The women of the family all want to know if their husbands have gringa girlfriends! I´ve convinced them that all their husbands do is work, I´m not even sure if they ever sleep, let alone chase gringas! Nice to make the connection between Durango´s immigrant population and their homes and families....
Dia 42: Santa Ana de Chiautempan, 0 kms
Last night, got to know Rodrigo´s family. They talked about the difficulties of life here and some of the conditions that make it so. Apparently, a couple of generations ago, the economy was local agriculture. Fruits, vegetables, nuts, etc. Lots of work...Then, large companies (mostly US, but also Euro) came in and started buying up land to build factories. This practice expanded under NAFTA. They cut the orchards and changed to an industrial economy. Only problem, the factories pay very poorly, 500 pesos ($50) a week for 60+ hours. So now, the men feel the need to go to the US for work. Often, they are gone for years. Some never return. The wives and children are left behind. It´s going to have social repercussions for generations if we don´t find a correction. The big companies have achieved both a cheap workforce here in Mexico, and a cheap workforce in the states.... On Rodrigo´s street, All the men are either in the states, or are planning to go. Today, Marco, who was in Durango and received a Smylie bike from us, is determind to show me around his town. We went to the poorest barrio, where people squeek by selling recyclables they´ve salvaged from the mounds of garbage accumulating in poorer neighborhoods. Then, we went by and visited Guadalupe´s family before loading up the rest of the fam and heading off to see the ruins and Pyramid at Cacaxtla. What a view of the volcanoes! THe site was interesting, although the largest pyramid was closed as part of the roof had fallen in. An hour in a van with the whole family trying to talk to me was more tiring that riding my bike!
Dia 43: Same
Massaged the noodle and went to the center to look for a good chain. Also, I´m fixing all the family´s bikes and I need parts. the best chain availble in all of Mexico is a Shimano 105...... I´ve now checked a dozen places and will have to settle for this. After 3,500 kms, my sram chain was wasted!! Tonia took me to her parent´s house as everyone wants to meet me. They weave wool blankets with manual looms. Amazing dance as both hands and feet have to work in perfect timing. They let me try it and I immediately tangled the thread. Tonia´s dad gave me a beautiful wool bag that I must make room for. They wanted to give me a whole blanket, but it´s a little bulky for the already loaded noodle....Each of the family members deserve mention and I do have them in my original notes, however, I must abbreviate...
Dia 44: Same
Had a nice conversation with Rodrigo´s wife, Bety this AM about god and religion. They want to know if I´m Catholic. I can´t lie, so I explain my beliefs as respectfully as possible.... I´m not Catholic, I´m a cyclist!!!!
Getting so many invites, gonna have to turn some down... The ladies in the plastic bag factory where Marco works, want me to come by to drink beers with them at 4. They want me to teach them english. No problem, a half hour should do it!!!! Met Doña Sebastiana last night at the house. She´s a Nahautl indian and a friend of the fam. Saw her again this AM. She speaks to me in Nahautl and I answer in english, then we both laugh and translate in spanish.
Dia 45: Same
Last night, we went to Tlaxcala center, where I saw the famous murals in the government building. Exceptional quality artwork that tells the story of Tlaxcala´s indigenous history on into the conquest. Later, we went to an even older church than I´d seen so far. 1520!!! After slaughtering 75% of the natives, the Spanish wasted little time in covering their ceremonial sites with massive churches. We also climbed a monster stairway that was constructed in the 1560´s. After returning to Rodrigo´s castle, another family with a son in DURANGO came by, the mom was desperate for news of life there. Unfortunately, I did´t remember meeting the young man, who´s name is Rafa. He works at McDonalds. There are at least 10 men from this barrio who are living and working in Durango right now. They are cooking your dinners and washing your plates,,,,,,,to provide for their wives and children. They are mostly, good people, just like everywhere. Please treat them respectfully when you meet them, their mothers and fathers would thank you. Guadalupe´s brother Rufino came by and got me this AM to bring me to his family´s house for breakfast. We went by their "colcha" factory where the blanket Lupe gave me was made. Rufino explained about the hardships of making a profit as his material costs keep rising, but he´s unable to raise his price as the competition with Chinese-made cloths put him in a tough market. He claims to make 40 cents on each blanket..... Went to his house and was served major portions of everything from Atole to tamales, etc, etc. Had a deep converstion about politics, corruption and relations between the US and Mex. Of course this included the popular topic of immigration.
My km count has dropped... and I don´t care!! It´s not about time or distance anymore. I´m just choosing my route by studying the map and conferring with "la Gente." It´s working so well! I´ve met some fantastic people, seen some awesome sites and even done a little bikin' in my spare time! I meet the people often by asking directions. "Which way to Atan?"
Today, some dudes (Gueyes) in Tepeapulco asked me if I knew about the pyramid near there. Of course, I didn´t, so they told me where it was. One guy said, it´s 15 km that way, the other responded, "¡Este guey esta llena de mierda!) That guy´s full of shit, it´s only 4-5 km. Since I´m resigned to a slower pace, I thought, Why not? It was out of my way, but I don´t care anymore, remember? On the way, I passed a really well kept property with a tree nursery near the road. I waved at the man as I passed, thinking, I´ll bet that´s an interesting person.....The next turn was to the pyramid at Xihuingo, which wound up being a few more kms on a gnarly dirt road. Well worth the shred, as the Pyramid was remote and beautiful, surrounded by mountains. It dates back to the 2nd century and has the remnants of an ancient roadway leading directly to Teotihacan. Portions of the original red stucco have survived the centuries. I think it´s my favorite site so far, as I had it all to myself and was able to feel the history.... On my way back by the nursery, I noticed the man I´d waved to earlier. He was busy potting a plant, so I rang my bell and he instantly waved me over. He invited me in for fruit and water and I accepted, as I just had a feeling that this guy was cool. He was interested in my trip and we had a fantastic converstion about everything while I chomped some of his homegrown fruit and drank his water from a clay pot. We wound up spending a couple of hours talking while he showed me around his property. He rescues trees and plants and nurtures them back to health. He´s filled his yard with an assortment of flowers, fruits and native plant species and is a self-taught expert on local flora. Not a spec of garbage either on his property or along the roadway in front. He also knew volumes about the pyramid culture. Turns out, we´re the same age and had lots in common. I now have another great friend, who invited me to stay as long as I like. He gave me a lifetime invitation to return to "mi casa." I really hope to. Made it to Apan, another old colonial city.
Dia 41: Atan to Santa Ana de Chiautempan, 66 kms
Stayed in a hotel last night and met the proprietor, a woman from Spain who invited to take me into town for dinner. We returned to the hotel and drank some tequila. She made me promise I´d go inside the old church tomorrow on my way out of town. So, I arrived at the church to be greeted by a group of folks cooking all kinds of super good food. Mass was in session, so I was their only customer for awhile. They got my well-practiced story, as they offered coffee, arroz con leche, and everything else that they so proudly had prepared for the soon to arrive congregation. I went inside to keep my promise and WOW! The church dates to 1607 and is elabarately decorated with solid gold. The courtyard filled with folks as mass ended and I paid up and boogied on toward Tlazcala... Yesterday, on my descent toward Apan, I caught a smoggy glimpse on 2 of Mexico´s largest volcanoes. Today, with the wind out of the east, the view was clear, and what a view!! I rode to a point where all 4 of the large volcanoes were in sight. Popocatepetl and Iztaccoihuatl to the west and Orizaba and Malinche to the east. 3 of 4 were snowcapped with Popo smoking and belching. It was so beautiful, I finally just stopped, hung my hammock, and took it all in....I´m writing this from my hammock. After a couple of hours of good rest, I cruised on into Tlaxcala to find Rodrigo´s and Guadalupe´s families. Really good vibe here, on the way in, a nice couple in a VW stopped me to talk. Lot´s less garbage. They invited me to stay with them, if I could´t locate the families. Rodrigo´s daughter-in-law answered when I called and said yes, they were expecting me and had plenty of room for me as long as I liked. As I´m really stinkin´tired, I´m gonna stay for a few days... I´ve been welcomed, fed, and given my own room here in Rodrigo´s house. I tryed to tell them that I can sleep on the roof in my sleeping bag, but they insisted on treating me like a king. The women of the family all want to know if their husbands have gringa girlfriends! I´ve convinced them that all their husbands do is work, I´m not even sure if they ever sleep, let alone chase gringas! Nice to make the connection between Durango´s immigrant population and their homes and families....
Dia 42: Santa Ana de Chiautempan, 0 kms
Last night, got to know Rodrigo´s family. They talked about the difficulties of life here and some of the conditions that make it so. Apparently, a couple of generations ago, the economy was local agriculture. Fruits, vegetables, nuts, etc. Lots of work...Then, large companies (mostly US, but also Euro) came in and started buying up land to build factories. This practice expanded under NAFTA. They cut the orchards and changed to an industrial economy. Only problem, the factories pay very poorly, 500 pesos ($50) a week for 60+ hours. So now, the men feel the need to go to the US for work. Often, they are gone for years. Some never return. The wives and children are left behind. It´s going to have social repercussions for generations if we don´t find a correction. The big companies have achieved both a cheap workforce here in Mexico, and a cheap workforce in the states.... On Rodrigo´s street, All the men are either in the states, or are planning to go. Today, Marco, who was in Durango and received a Smylie bike from us, is determind to show me around his town. We went to the poorest barrio, where people squeek by selling recyclables they´ve salvaged from the mounds of garbage accumulating in poorer neighborhoods. Then, we went by and visited Guadalupe´s family before loading up the rest of the fam and heading off to see the ruins and Pyramid at Cacaxtla. What a view of the volcanoes! THe site was interesting, although the largest pyramid was closed as part of the roof had fallen in. An hour in a van with the whole family trying to talk to me was more tiring that riding my bike!
Dia 43: Same
Massaged the noodle and went to the center to look for a good chain. Also, I´m fixing all the family´s bikes and I need parts. the best chain availble in all of Mexico is a Shimano 105...... I´ve now checked a dozen places and will have to settle for this. After 3,500 kms, my sram chain was wasted!! Tonia took me to her parent´s house as everyone wants to meet me. They weave wool blankets with manual looms. Amazing dance as both hands and feet have to work in perfect timing. They let me try it and I immediately tangled the thread. Tonia´s dad gave me a beautiful wool bag that I must make room for. They wanted to give me a whole blanket, but it´s a little bulky for the already loaded noodle....Each of the family members deserve mention and I do have them in my original notes, however, I must abbreviate...
Dia 44: Same
Had a nice conversation with Rodrigo´s wife, Bety this AM about god and religion. They want to know if I´m Catholic. I can´t lie, so I explain my beliefs as respectfully as possible.... I´m not Catholic, I´m a cyclist!!!!
Getting so many invites, gonna have to turn some down... The ladies in the plastic bag factory where Marco works, want me to come by to drink beers with them at 4. They want me to teach them english. No problem, a half hour should do it!!!! Met Doña Sebastiana last night at the house. She´s a Nahautl indian and a friend of the fam. Saw her again this AM. She speaks to me in Nahautl and I answer in english, then we both laugh and translate in spanish.
Dia 45: Same
Last night, we went to Tlaxcala center, where I saw the famous murals in the government building. Exceptional quality artwork that tells the story of Tlaxcala´s indigenous history on into the conquest. Later, we went to an even older church than I´d seen so far. 1520!!! After slaughtering 75% of the natives, the Spanish wasted little time in covering their ceremonial sites with massive churches. We also climbed a monster stairway that was constructed in the 1560´s. After returning to Rodrigo´s castle, another family with a son in DURANGO came by, the mom was desperate for news of life there. Unfortunately, I did´t remember meeting the young man, who´s name is Rafa. He works at McDonalds. There are at least 10 men from this barrio who are living and working in Durango right now. They are cooking your dinners and washing your plates,,,,,,,to provide for their wives and children. They are mostly, good people, just like everywhere. Please treat them respectfully when you meet them, their mothers and fathers would thank you. Guadalupe´s brother Rufino came by and got me this AM to bring me to his family´s house for breakfast. We went by their "colcha" factory where the blanket Lupe gave me was made. Rufino explained about the hardships of making a profit as his material costs keep rising, but he´s unable to raise his price as the competition with Chinese-made cloths put him in a tough market. He claims to make 40 cents on each blanket..... Went to his house and was served major portions of everything from Atole to tamales, etc, etc. Had a deep converstion about politics, corruption and relations between the US and Mex. Of course this included the popular topic of immigration.
posted by Bicycle Bob at
6:18 PM
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