Days 46-49
Dia 46: Santa Ana to Chipilo, 73 kms
What makes me turn here, instead of there? Why do I keep making the right choices? Somehow, I usually feel led to the right campsite, the right restaurant, the right hotel.......My prominent memory from today is Ruben and Maria. They are another example of some guiding force which is showing me the way. I'll get to Ruben and Maria later. Let me back up a bit, this is gonna be another long one, brace yourselves! Awoke knowing I had to move on. Kept getting in deeper and deeper with the family Rodriguez. I love them all, Doña Bety, Gisela, Luis Angel, Marco, Tonia, Roberto, Leslie, etc, etc, etc. We all now have a relationship..... So, I left that all behind with hugs, gifts and a powerful benediction delivered by Chino. Some of the girls were crying. Once again, I expose myself to fate or chance or is this all just completely random? I am becoming increasingly convinced that it's not random. This is all unfolding as if I'd dreamed of it previously. Stopped by the bike shop on my way out of town as the owners seemed intellegent enough to send me the right way toward Cholula. Turns out, they didn't have a freakin' clue! I stopped and asked many more people along the way and actually had a consensus, sending me in exactly the wrong direction!! My personal compass warned me to get out the map and figure it out for myself, which I did..... I'm finding out that I can find the way just by reading the sun, and the terrain, and my trusty map book of Mexico. It's a sad reality that most Mexicans don't even know their own region, let alone anything beyond. I'm often asked, after telling them I started in Colorado, "How many hours did it take you?" So, I made my way to Cholula and I'd have to say I was dissapointed by what I found. Something like 365 churches, all of which were built on top of a pre-columbian sacred site. Turns out, as Ruben taught me later, that Cholula was the ceremonial center of an ancient empire. The largest pyramid in mesoamerica is located there. I saw it on my way into town, of course, with a massive cathedral on top. I wondered if this could be the pyramid, but brushed aside the idea as it more resembled a small mountain. So, I was finally directed back there to find that there was a substantial entry fee with no where to secure my bike. So, I skipped it and bolted out of Cholula toward my encounter with Ruben and Maria... Suffered through Dirt, auto-pista, and 2-lane with a shoulder that the locals use as another lane. Which means no room for cyclists. It was all well worth the effort as I kept pushing on, looking for a good campsite to view Popcatepetl, which I was very close to now. Passed many fine spots 'til I saw Ruben out in his yard, directing some employees to water certain plants. Something made me turn here. I asked Ruben if I could camp in the cornfield behind his place as it had a fantastic, unobstructed view of a smoking Popo. He said of course, and I replied that I'd just eaten, but I'd come back to his restaurant for a drink after fixing camp...
Somehow, I continue to find places and people who are teaching me things I need and want to know. I beleive this has been happening to me all of my life. It's so obvious on this trip that I can't deny it. So I returned for a beer at Ruben's restaurant to find it empty except for a few kitchen workers and Ruben and his wife, Maria. It's funny, because at camp, I was thinking about how comfortable I was, and tired and how nice to just lay down and go to sleep as I watched Popo. But something kept telling me to go to the restaurant. I thought, perhaps there's a hot chick working there..... So, I introduced myself to Ruben and Maria and they invited me to join them. We spent the next 2+ hours conversing about all the subjects which are of major interest to me now. Ruben is a super interesting, intellegent man who taught me a huge amount in a short time. His grasp of history was impressive and he was able to enlighten me about the hidden treasures of Cholula (which I missed) and tied it to the present social situation in Mexico. He'd been a hunter as a young man and had traveled all over Mexico. There's so much he told me that I could write a book. He told me of his cousin, who lives in the US. They had both travelled to the border together to sneak into the states in 1959. Something told him to stay in Mexico and he did. His cousin continued on and made a successful life for himself in Chicago. Now, claims Ruben, his cousin is still working to pay his bills, while Ruben's been retired for years. His point being that Mexico is a great place, if you work hard, you can make a good life for yourself there. This is where he tied history to the current immigration situation. He claims that most illegal immigrants are looking for the easy way, when they could make it in Mexico if they worked for it. I'll keep the rest of my notes on Ruben to myself as I want to move on.....
Dia 47: Chipio to Tehuitzingo, 98 kms
The days are blending together now. Went to eat at Ruben's restaurant and was served the best cappucino I've had yet in Mexico. In fact, it's the only cap I've had in Mexico as the only other coffee I've found is instant. My breakfast was also excellent and I later found out that Ruben is a nationally renowned chef, perhaps internationally renowned. There were awards and fotos all over in a corner of the place. He joined me at my table and continued to pour wisdoms all over me. He insisted that I try his famous italian cake, which of course was delicious. Then, he talked about Popo. His dad told him of the big explosion in the 1930's, but the world didn't pay attention because WW2 was starting. Then, it went to sleep for the next 50 years 'til 1994, when it started smoking again. Ruben claims he can feel the tremors when it belches and has time to hurry outside in time to hear the boom and see the smoke.
Had another philosophical-religious conversation as I ate. Went to pay my bill, and he charged me half price... Lot's of downhill to start today's ride. It turned back to desert and got warm. Looks a lot like Sonora again. I'm on a 2-lane, but back in the country again with little traffic. It's mountainous and beautiful. Got dinner fixin's and made for camp. I can still see Popo smokin' off to the north. While cooking dinner, a father and son came to my campfire to check me out. I was a long way off the road, but my fire was visable from their house. They owned the land and were worried about it burning up. I greeted them and asked permission to camp on their land. I told them the "Story" which helps to ease their minds. They gave me their blessing....
Dia 48: Tehuitzingo to Chila de las Flores, 81 kms
Rose early today, there were still stars in the sky. Wanted to get a jump on the day. Cooked, ate, changed back to my skinny tires, stretched and cruised. Hilly, scenic desert. Hot, but not unbearably so. Had a difficult time finding a rythem as I got involved in numerous conversations at every tienda I stopped at. At lunch, the lady told me, "One little climb and then all down hill." LIER!!!!!! I climbed mostly for the next 40 kms! Never really did descend. Slow going with my heavy noodle, even with a mild tailwind. Thought I was going to make Huajuapan with ease, but finally had to give up on the idea at Chila. Bought dinner supplies, beer, and breakfast stuff at a small tienda where I met the ladies who worked there. One was rather cute and I almost had her convinced to come camp with me. Most people ask me if I'm afraid to camp away from a town. They were trying to convince me to camp next to the tienda, but I feel so much better out in the wild. The riding today was really sweet, even though it was mostly uphill. Little traffic and sweet, curvy terrain. Began the day with a view of Popo and ended with a view of Orizaba, snowcapped and towering above the surrounding landscape.
Dia 49: Chila de las Flores to Huajuapan de Leon, 23 kms
Got up determined to fix my mal functioning stove with an hour invested and no success. So, had to start a fire before I could cook. Ate, repacked and hit it, still wondering where the long descent was that the LIER had told me about yesterday. 4 climbs later, I finally got my downhill and headed straight for the 100 peso hotel without asking anyone. I need to re-stock, rest, wash clothes, shower, etc. I'll stay here tonight and try to decide which way to go on to Oaxaca City and Monte Alban. It's either stick with the federal road, which is nice and more direct, or the backroads, which I'm sure is beautiful, but more severe. The fireworks are going off in every pueblo lately for the build up to the virgen Guadalupe's birthday. References to god are a constant in Mexico, "Primero Dios, Adios, May god accompany you," are a few examples. I respond in kind, keeping my own beliefs in my heart... I've appreciated the beautiful colonial archetecture throughout Mexico, usually centered around the principal cathedral. However, I'm finding that I prefer to visit the pre-columbian sites as their simple immensity and long history attest to the quality of a conquered culture. Honestly, I'm getting tired of visiting examples of colonial conquest...
What makes me turn here, instead of there? Why do I keep making the right choices? Somehow, I usually feel led to the right campsite, the right restaurant, the right hotel.......My prominent memory from today is Ruben and Maria. They are another example of some guiding force which is showing me the way. I'll get to Ruben and Maria later. Let me back up a bit, this is gonna be another long one, brace yourselves! Awoke knowing I had to move on. Kept getting in deeper and deeper with the family Rodriguez. I love them all, Doña Bety, Gisela, Luis Angel, Marco, Tonia, Roberto, Leslie, etc, etc, etc. We all now have a relationship..... So, I left that all behind with hugs, gifts and a powerful benediction delivered by Chino. Some of the girls were crying. Once again, I expose myself to fate or chance or is this all just completely random? I am becoming increasingly convinced that it's not random. This is all unfolding as if I'd dreamed of it previously. Stopped by the bike shop on my way out of town as the owners seemed intellegent enough to send me the right way toward Cholula. Turns out, they didn't have a freakin' clue! I stopped and asked many more people along the way and actually had a consensus, sending me in exactly the wrong direction!! My personal compass warned me to get out the map and figure it out for myself, which I did..... I'm finding out that I can find the way just by reading the sun, and the terrain, and my trusty map book of Mexico. It's a sad reality that most Mexicans don't even know their own region, let alone anything beyond. I'm often asked, after telling them I started in Colorado, "How many hours did it take you?" So, I made my way to Cholula and I'd have to say I was dissapointed by what I found. Something like 365 churches, all of which were built on top of a pre-columbian sacred site. Turns out, as Ruben taught me later, that Cholula was the ceremonial center of an ancient empire. The largest pyramid in mesoamerica is located there. I saw it on my way into town, of course, with a massive cathedral on top. I wondered if this could be the pyramid, but brushed aside the idea as it more resembled a small mountain. So, I was finally directed back there to find that there was a substantial entry fee with no where to secure my bike. So, I skipped it and bolted out of Cholula toward my encounter with Ruben and Maria... Suffered through Dirt, auto-pista, and 2-lane with a shoulder that the locals use as another lane. Which means no room for cyclists. It was all well worth the effort as I kept pushing on, looking for a good campsite to view Popcatepetl, which I was very close to now. Passed many fine spots 'til I saw Ruben out in his yard, directing some employees to water certain plants. Something made me turn here. I asked Ruben if I could camp in the cornfield behind his place as it had a fantastic, unobstructed view of a smoking Popo. He said of course, and I replied that I'd just eaten, but I'd come back to his restaurant for a drink after fixing camp...
Somehow, I continue to find places and people who are teaching me things I need and want to know. I beleive this has been happening to me all of my life. It's so obvious on this trip that I can't deny it. So I returned for a beer at Ruben's restaurant to find it empty except for a few kitchen workers and Ruben and his wife, Maria. It's funny, because at camp, I was thinking about how comfortable I was, and tired and how nice to just lay down and go to sleep as I watched Popo. But something kept telling me to go to the restaurant. I thought, perhaps there's a hot chick working there..... So, I introduced myself to Ruben and Maria and they invited me to join them. We spent the next 2+ hours conversing about all the subjects which are of major interest to me now. Ruben is a super interesting, intellegent man who taught me a huge amount in a short time. His grasp of history was impressive and he was able to enlighten me about the hidden treasures of Cholula (which I missed) and tied it to the present social situation in Mexico. He'd been a hunter as a young man and had traveled all over Mexico. There's so much he told me that I could write a book. He told me of his cousin, who lives in the US. They had both travelled to the border together to sneak into the states in 1959. Something told him to stay in Mexico and he did. His cousin continued on and made a successful life for himself in Chicago. Now, claims Ruben, his cousin is still working to pay his bills, while Ruben's been retired for years. His point being that Mexico is a great place, if you work hard, you can make a good life for yourself there. This is where he tied history to the current immigration situation. He claims that most illegal immigrants are looking for the easy way, when they could make it in Mexico if they worked for it. I'll keep the rest of my notes on Ruben to myself as I want to move on.....
Dia 47: Chipio to Tehuitzingo, 98 kms
The days are blending together now. Went to eat at Ruben's restaurant and was served the best cappucino I've had yet in Mexico. In fact, it's the only cap I've had in Mexico as the only other coffee I've found is instant. My breakfast was also excellent and I later found out that Ruben is a nationally renowned chef, perhaps internationally renowned. There were awards and fotos all over in a corner of the place. He joined me at my table and continued to pour wisdoms all over me. He insisted that I try his famous italian cake, which of course was delicious. Then, he talked about Popo. His dad told him of the big explosion in the 1930's, but the world didn't pay attention because WW2 was starting. Then, it went to sleep for the next 50 years 'til 1994, when it started smoking again. Ruben claims he can feel the tremors when it belches and has time to hurry outside in time to hear the boom and see the smoke.
Had another philosophical-religious conversation as I ate. Went to pay my bill, and he charged me half price... Lot's of downhill to start today's ride. It turned back to desert and got warm. Looks a lot like Sonora again. I'm on a 2-lane, but back in the country again with little traffic. It's mountainous and beautiful. Got dinner fixin's and made for camp. I can still see Popo smokin' off to the north. While cooking dinner, a father and son came to my campfire to check me out. I was a long way off the road, but my fire was visable from their house. They owned the land and were worried about it burning up. I greeted them and asked permission to camp on their land. I told them the "Story" which helps to ease their minds. They gave me their blessing....
Dia 48: Tehuitzingo to Chila de las Flores, 81 kms
Rose early today, there were still stars in the sky. Wanted to get a jump on the day. Cooked, ate, changed back to my skinny tires, stretched and cruised. Hilly, scenic desert. Hot, but not unbearably so. Had a difficult time finding a rythem as I got involved in numerous conversations at every tienda I stopped at. At lunch, the lady told me, "One little climb and then all down hill." LIER!!!!!! I climbed mostly for the next 40 kms! Never really did descend. Slow going with my heavy noodle, even with a mild tailwind. Thought I was going to make Huajuapan with ease, but finally had to give up on the idea at Chila. Bought dinner supplies, beer, and breakfast stuff at a small tienda where I met the ladies who worked there. One was rather cute and I almost had her convinced to come camp with me. Most people ask me if I'm afraid to camp away from a town. They were trying to convince me to camp next to the tienda, but I feel so much better out in the wild. The riding today was really sweet, even though it was mostly uphill. Little traffic and sweet, curvy terrain. Began the day with a view of Popo and ended with a view of Orizaba, snowcapped and towering above the surrounding landscape.
Dia 49: Chila de las Flores to Huajuapan de Leon, 23 kms
Got up determined to fix my mal functioning stove with an hour invested and no success. So, had to start a fire before I could cook. Ate, repacked and hit it, still wondering where the long descent was that the LIER had told me about yesterday. 4 climbs later, I finally got my downhill and headed straight for the 100 peso hotel without asking anyone. I need to re-stock, rest, wash clothes, shower, etc. I'll stay here tonight and try to decide which way to go on to Oaxaca City and Monte Alban. It's either stick with the federal road, which is nice and more direct, or the backroads, which I'm sure is beautiful, but more severe. The fireworks are going off in every pueblo lately for the build up to the virgen Guadalupe's birthday. References to god are a constant in Mexico, "Primero Dios, Adios, May god accompany you," are a few examples. I respond in kind, keeping my own beliefs in my heart... I've appreciated the beautiful colonial archetecture throughout Mexico, usually centered around the principal cathedral. However, I'm finding that I prefer to visit the pre-columbian sites as their simple immensity and long history attest to the quality of a conquered culture. Honestly, I'm getting tired of visiting examples of colonial conquest...
posted by Bicycle Bob at
6:23 PM
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