Day 50
Dia 50: Huajuapan de Leon - San Juan Teposcolula, 76 km
50 days into this trip! Feels like I ought to celebrate,,, but then, the entire trip is a celebration! Pedalling my way along makes it all so real. I've come so far, but not just in measurable distance, I've grown and gained knowledge through experience, which means so much more than when it comes second hand.... I'll never be the same old "Bicycle Bob" and I'm happy about it. Not that I was dissappointed in myself before, but that's all in my rear view mirror and I'm looking straight ahead now....
I've asked a bunch of people here about the options to Oaxaca City and they all reply,"Either the auto pista or the federal road." I've been on the Fed road since Cholula and it's gotten better as the traffic died down. they all say therre's little traffic on the Fed road, so I'm going that way. My trusted friends on this journey, the "noodle" and my guardian angel are doing fine and enjoying the ride. I'm feeling steady, but not snappy. But then, you try feeling snappy with 50+ kilos of bike and gear on board! Fixed my stove again, finicky little devil. It fires strong when it feels like it. See ya tomorrow!
Well, it's later today at camp. A real beauty! Oaxaca, so far, is gorgeous! Little traffic since Huajuapan, mostly climbing. I'm at a high spot tonight, "La Gente" tell me it get's cold here at night. With wind. It is cool, but they really don't know what cold is. Reminds me of a poem that me and my boyhood buddy, Roggi made up so many years ago.. It goes like this:
So you think you're cold, ey?
You know what cold be,,,,,, down,,,, high country,
Mexico,,, high country,
You know what cold be!
Guess you had to be there! Think I learned "what cold be" growing up back in New York.
Today, another awesome encounter. Angel, who I now count amongst my many good friends that I have here in Mexico found me going the wrong way! Guess I wasn't paying close attention and I made a wrong turn. Coincidentally, it was the turn I considered making as an option to arrive in Oaxaca city. A few kms into my error, a moto passed me and waved in approval. A few more kms later, the same moto was pulled over on the side of the road and the rider waved me over. He asked "the questions" and I reponded with "the story." He told me he was a cyclist and had always dreamed of traveling as I'm doing now. He asked my route and I told him, he responded, "You're going the wrong way!" He explained where I'd erred and offered to lead me back to the junction if I'd let him buy me a drink and talk for awhile. I accepted his kind offer and we returned to the previous pueblito for a couple of cold gatorades. He offered to lead me all the way back to the junction and he did. Once there, he said, "I'm gonna go make my delivery, and then bring my wife to meet you, she likes adventure also. We'll catch up to you in a couple of hours. What do you like to eat?" I climbed for most of the next 2 hours and began to think that Angel couldn't make it. Then, here he comes with his wife on the back of the moto! We stopped and the fed me and asked more questions. They wound up following me for another 20 km, protecting my backside..... I now have yet another lifetime invitation to come and stay as long as I wish....
Carried on to the next opportunity to stock up with dinner makins' and rode off to find camp as it's very sparsely populated here. Found another beautiful high spot with a wind break. Encountered a couple children on my way and they were full of wonder and questions. I asked them where to find the owner of the land and they said,"down there." I parked the noodle and went "down there" to ask for permission to camp. A beautiful woman was at the nearest house and said "Up there" is fine. Here I am, fed, a couple beers down the hatch. Think I'll sleep well "up here!"
Dia 51: San Juan Teposcolula - Telixtlahuaca, 106 kms
No, I'm not making up these place names! Failed to tell of yesterday's flat tire... Woke up at the hotel Mexico with a front flat. Dissassembled and found a monster thorn and proceeded to patch. When I attempted to extract the thing, it just broke off, leaving the head imbedded in my conti's casing. Re-tryed to grab it and pull it through, to no avail. Finally had to perform major surgery to remove it. After much poking and probing, the impacted "monster" popped out, resembling more a small tooth that a thorn....
Today was an awesome day of cycling!! the federal road had been replaced by an autopista some time ago which has left it vacant of traffic. Beautiful climbs all day long into the high country of Oaxaca. Awesome views, good pavement, one of my favorite roads so far! Passed through a small pueblito that had a huge church that was built in 1550. I could see it from many kms away as it resembled a cluster of grain elevators like you'd expect to see in Kansas. It's so out of place in this tiny pueblo. The caretaker told me that 500 years ago, the population was much larger, 'til an epidemic wiped them all out. They're currently renovating the place, I snuck inside for a look. Quite spectacular! Proceded to enjoy the empty road for the remainder of the day.
Dia 52: Telixtlahuaca - Oaxaca City, 42 kms
So what's today's story? Got up knowing I'd need to find a bank as I was down to 34 pesos. Not enough for breakfast, so I bought a cup of coffee (hot water, instant nescafe.) I asked the lady how much and she replied 5 pesos. Then her husband interupted and increased the price to 9 pesos. (He saw I was a gringo!) This left me with 25 pesos with 32 kms to Oaxaca City and the nearest bank. Stopped and bought some gas for my stove so I could cook some breakfast, 1 peso, down to 24.... Encountered a fruit salesman on the way toward the city and bought some of his stuff. He wanted 28 pesos, but we settled for 24, broke.... Made it into the city and stopped at the first auto teller to extract more "fun tickets," but the stupid machine wouldn't cough them out. Figured I'd pushed the wrong button and tryed again, same result... Now, I was worried that the machine had ripped me off, so I nervously seeked out another and successfully got some pesos this time. Went and bought a phone card and called the last bank to make sure that my account hadn't been charged, but after a half hour of waiting to talk to a real person, I was told they couldn't help me... Now, I was pissed. Called 1st National in Durango and was reassured that my account had not been charged. Whew! Relieved, I went about my way checking out the beautiful historic district of Oaxaca City. The people are very lean and healthy looking here. Plenty of fresh fruits and veggies. Gorgeous women!!! Found a hostal a few blocks from the Zocala, the famous plaza in the city center. Stashed the noodle and walked back to hang out, where I was asked for an interview by some university students who'd seen me with the bike earlier. We had a great talk, exchanged pix and then I interviewed them. they told me their greatest hero is Benito Juarez, former president of Mexico who hailed from Oaxaca. He's famous for the following beautiful phrase:
"Entre los individuos como entre las naciones, el respeto ajeno es la paz."
"Between individuals as between nations, respect for the rights of others brings peace."
Wouldn't it be nice if we could all live this way?
50 days into this trip! Feels like I ought to celebrate,,, but then, the entire trip is a celebration! Pedalling my way along makes it all so real. I've come so far, but not just in measurable distance, I've grown and gained knowledge through experience, which means so much more than when it comes second hand.... I'll never be the same old "Bicycle Bob" and I'm happy about it. Not that I was dissappointed in myself before, but that's all in my rear view mirror and I'm looking straight ahead now....
I've asked a bunch of people here about the options to Oaxaca City and they all reply,"Either the auto pista or the federal road." I've been on the Fed road since Cholula and it's gotten better as the traffic died down. they all say therre's little traffic on the Fed road, so I'm going that way. My trusted friends on this journey, the "noodle" and my guardian angel are doing fine and enjoying the ride. I'm feeling steady, but not snappy. But then, you try feeling snappy with 50+ kilos of bike and gear on board! Fixed my stove again, finicky little devil. It fires strong when it feels like it. See ya tomorrow!
Well, it's later today at camp. A real beauty! Oaxaca, so far, is gorgeous! Little traffic since Huajuapan, mostly climbing. I'm at a high spot tonight, "La Gente" tell me it get's cold here at night. With wind. It is cool, but they really don't know what cold is. Reminds me of a poem that me and my boyhood buddy, Roggi made up so many years ago.. It goes like this:
So you think you're cold, ey?
You know what cold be,,,,,, down,,,, high country,
Mexico,,, high country,
You know what cold be!
Guess you had to be there! Think I learned "what cold be" growing up back in New York.
Today, another awesome encounter. Angel, who I now count amongst my many good friends that I have here in Mexico found me going the wrong way! Guess I wasn't paying close attention and I made a wrong turn. Coincidentally, it was the turn I considered making as an option to arrive in Oaxaca city. A few kms into my error, a moto passed me and waved in approval. A few more kms later, the same moto was pulled over on the side of the road and the rider waved me over. He asked "the questions" and I reponded with "the story." He told me he was a cyclist and had always dreamed of traveling as I'm doing now. He asked my route and I told him, he responded, "You're going the wrong way!" He explained where I'd erred and offered to lead me back to the junction if I'd let him buy me a drink and talk for awhile. I accepted his kind offer and we returned to the previous pueblito for a couple of cold gatorades. He offered to lead me all the way back to the junction and he did. Once there, he said, "I'm gonna go make my delivery, and then bring my wife to meet you, she likes adventure also. We'll catch up to you in a couple of hours. What do you like to eat?" I climbed for most of the next 2 hours and began to think that Angel couldn't make it. Then, here he comes with his wife on the back of the moto! We stopped and the fed me and asked more questions. They wound up following me for another 20 km, protecting my backside..... I now have yet another lifetime invitation to come and stay as long as I wish....
Carried on to the next opportunity to stock up with dinner makins' and rode off to find camp as it's very sparsely populated here. Found another beautiful high spot with a wind break. Encountered a couple children on my way and they were full of wonder and questions. I asked them where to find the owner of the land and they said,"down there." I parked the noodle and went "down there" to ask for permission to camp. A beautiful woman was at the nearest house and said "Up there" is fine. Here I am, fed, a couple beers down the hatch. Think I'll sleep well "up here!"
Dia 51: San Juan Teposcolula - Telixtlahuaca, 106 kms
No, I'm not making up these place names! Failed to tell of yesterday's flat tire... Woke up at the hotel Mexico with a front flat. Dissassembled and found a monster thorn and proceeded to patch. When I attempted to extract the thing, it just broke off, leaving the head imbedded in my conti's casing. Re-tryed to grab it and pull it through, to no avail. Finally had to perform major surgery to remove it. After much poking and probing, the impacted "monster" popped out, resembling more a small tooth that a thorn....
Today was an awesome day of cycling!! the federal road had been replaced by an autopista some time ago which has left it vacant of traffic. Beautiful climbs all day long into the high country of Oaxaca. Awesome views, good pavement, one of my favorite roads so far! Passed through a small pueblito that had a huge church that was built in 1550. I could see it from many kms away as it resembled a cluster of grain elevators like you'd expect to see in Kansas. It's so out of place in this tiny pueblo. The caretaker told me that 500 years ago, the population was much larger, 'til an epidemic wiped them all out. They're currently renovating the place, I snuck inside for a look. Quite spectacular! Proceded to enjoy the empty road for the remainder of the day.
Dia 52: Telixtlahuaca - Oaxaca City, 42 kms
So what's today's story? Got up knowing I'd need to find a bank as I was down to 34 pesos. Not enough for breakfast, so I bought a cup of coffee (hot water, instant nescafe.) I asked the lady how much and she replied 5 pesos. Then her husband interupted and increased the price to 9 pesos. (He saw I was a gringo!) This left me with 25 pesos with 32 kms to Oaxaca City and the nearest bank. Stopped and bought some gas for my stove so I could cook some breakfast, 1 peso, down to 24.... Encountered a fruit salesman on the way toward the city and bought some of his stuff. He wanted 28 pesos, but we settled for 24, broke.... Made it into the city and stopped at the first auto teller to extract more "fun tickets," but the stupid machine wouldn't cough them out. Figured I'd pushed the wrong button and tryed again, same result... Now, I was worried that the machine had ripped me off, so I nervously seeked out another and successfully got some pesos this time. Went and bought a phone card and called the last bank to make sure that my account hadn't been charged, but after a half hour of waiting to talk to a real person, I was told they couldn't help me... Now, I was pissed. Called 1st National in Durango and was reassured that my account had not been charged. Whew! Relieved, I went about my way checking out the beautiful historic district of Oaxaca City. The people are very lean and healthy looking here. Plenty of fresh fruits and veggies. Gorgeous women!!! Found a hostal a few blocks from the Zocala, the famous plaza in the city center. Stashed the noodle and walked back to hang out, where I was asked for an interview by some university students who'd seen me with the bike earlier. We had a great talk, exchanged pix and then I interviewed them. they told me their greatest hero is Benito Juarez, former president of Mexico who hailed from Oaxaca. He's famous for the following beautiful phrase:
"Entre los individuos como entre las naciones, el respeto ajeno es la paz."
"Between individuals as between nations, respect for the rights of others brings peace."
Wouldn't it be nice if we could all live this way?
posted by Bicycle Bob at
7:23 PM
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