Dia 76 Chisec - Coban 80 kms?
Yesterday's mtns were just the beginning. Today, I really climbed!! Awesome road, light traffic, but holy crap! The climbs were the steepest I've encountered in my 2+ months on the road. At times, I struggled to turn over my 20 - 34 low gear. Must have reached 30 - 40 false summits today. The locals seem a little better off here in the mountains and they behave differently too. Much less "Gringo!" today. Yesterday's flats were big agribiz operations, while here, I see more family subsistance farming. Lots of corn and beans, of course, and finally, I climbed enough to reach the coffee plantations. By PM, the clouds built and I finished in a light rain. It's now rained on me at least a little, every day since entering Guatemala...... Just as Chisec had a strange vibe, Coban as well just didn't feel right. There seems to be an uncomfortable blend of Spanish, modern, and Mayan indigenous culture here.
I did have 2 nice interactions today. The first was with a young indian named Henry. He came riding up beside me as I passed through a little villiage. He was riding a 20" single speed bike with squeeky chain. He seemed to have no problem keeping up with me but then, he wasn't hauling 50+ kilos either. Anyway, he spoke almost no spanish, but we managed to communicate. He told me he was going a few kms down the road. As it turns out, we rode more or less together for at least 20 kms. I'd drop him on the descents and he'd catch me and drop me on the climbs. One time, the climb was so steep, he actually caught me as I rode in my 20 -34 and he was walking! We rode the last 5 k together to his villige, where I bought him lunch. This kid could be a champion if he had some support.... Later, I needed some liquids and stopped at a little tienda. The traditionally dressed woman there spoke excellent Spanish and wanted to talk. I was gassed and didn't mind the break. She wound up being a very educated Mayan who had a beautiful outlook. She tryed to teach me how to say hello in Q'eqchi' but it was impossible for me so I'll just have to be content with a ring of my bell and a wave.
It was obvious as I came into Coban, that I wasn't in the country anymore as I began to see fewer traditionally clothed women. I also say 2 gay dudes and another guy in a poorly wrapped loincloth that displayed his manhood for all the world to see......
Yesterday's mtns were just the beginning. Today, I really climbed!! Awesome road, light traffic, but holy crap! The climbs were the steepest I've encountered in my 2+ months on the road. At times, I struggled to turn over my 20 - 34 low gear. Must have reached 30 - 40 false summits today. The locals seem a little better off here in the mountains and they behave differently too. Much less "Gringo!" today. Yesterday's flats were big agribiz operations, while here, I see more family subsistance farming. Lots of corn and beans, of course, and finally, I climbed enough to reach the coffee plantations. By PM, the clouds built and I finished in a light rain. It's now rained on me at least a little, every day since entering Guatemala...... Just as Chisec had a strange vibe, Coban as well just didn't feel right. There seems to be an uncomfortable blend of Spanish, modern, and Mayan indigenous culture here.
I did have 2 nice interactions today. The first was with a young indian named Henry. He came riding up beside me as I passed through a little villiage. He was riding a 20" single speed bike with squeeky chain. He seemed to have no problem keeping up with me but then, he wasn't hauling 50+ kilos either. Anyway, he spoke almost no spanish, but we managed to communicate. He told me he was going a few kms down the road. As it turns out, we rode more or less together for at least 20 kms. I'd drop him on the descents and he'd catch me and drop me on the climbs. One time, the climb was so steep, he actually caught me as I rode in my 20 -34 and he was walking! We rode the last 5 k together to his villige, where I bought him lunch. This kid could be a champion if he had some support.... Later, I needed some liquids and stopped at a little tienda. The traditionally dressed woman there spoke excellent Spanish and wanted to talk. I was gassed and didn't mind the break. She wound up being a very educated Mayan who had a beautiful outlook. She tryed to teach me how to say hello in Q'eqchi' but it was impossible for me so I'll just have to be content with a ring of my bell and a wave.
It was obvious as I came into Coban, that I wasn't in the country anymore as I began to see fewer traditionally clothed women. I also say 2 gay dudes and another guy in a poorly wrapped loincloth that displayed his manhood for all the world to see......
posted by Bicycle Bob at
6:57 PM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home