Dia 78 Morazan - Zacapa 89kms
Had more good conversation with Juan this AM. He warned me about the deteriorating situation in Guatemala City with it's gangs and heavy, violent crime. Now, I'm certain not to pass through there! He confirmed my feelings about the difficulties faced by immigrants to the US. He lived through 11 years of misstreatment and low pay. And he had papers! He's happy to stay in Guatemala now as he's got 3 great kids and a foxy wife. His first wife died a couple of years ago.
Have I even hinted yet that this is a very hard bike ride? Or that it is not pure pleasure? Get the message? Today's 89 mostly flat, hot kms were not fun. The road was fine, good shoulder. The views quite scenic. Only one hard climb. So what do I have to complain about? I'm now so physically fried that my normally positive outlook is compromised. In fact, today, I'd call it a poutlook! The wind had a lot to do with my sufferage today. It started as a light wind and seemed to increase in intensity as the day wore on. Or was it just that my state of exhaustion was growing? Also, I flatted. Probably, my own personal demons were busy as well. Lot's of questions today, huh? I hope a good night's sleep provides me with some answers....
Dia 79 Zacapa - Copan 85kms
I expected to have bad legs again today, but to my surprise, I feel strong. After leaving Zacapa, I climbed for a while, then dropped into Chiquimula. Had an early lunch and carried on to the junction that would head my into Honduras. This is where the real climb began. Another of the baby chainring variety. Climbed above the desert into much cooler and prettier terrain as I neared the border. Passed through some gorgeous valleys and within 2k of the border crossing, I flatted. As I was fixing it, a pretty schoolteacher named Nora came walking along and my attention was adjusted in her direction. A taxi came along and swooped her up as a local indigenous man and another taxi driver came by to "help" me with my repair. They were so busy asking the questions and talking to each other that I couldn't hear the leak and thusly guessed that I had repaired my flat. I remounted and pushed on toward the border, only to discover that my tire was flat again. Now, I was pissed, as it was getting late. This time, I fixed it properly without help and sprinted toward the border. Crossed easily as usual and climbed for about 10k to get to Copan Ruins. It seems such an injustice to me that those of us who hold US passpòrts can cross these borders so easily, while Central Americans have a hard time moving between countries..... Met a couple of tourists in Copan ruins and had a few drinks with them. Icy from Germany and Barbara from California.
Dia 80 Copan Ruinas
After breakfast, went to the ruins to be wowed once again. This is perhaps not the grandest site I've seen, but certainly the most artistic. The rock carving here is off the charts. It sports steles as large as Bonampak with much more detailed inscription. Also, there's the hieroglythic staircase that tell's the story of this city through it's 400 year heyday. Tunnels reveal earlier structures that were covered by succeeding rulers. Facinating stuff! Just as the other great Mayan cities of the era, it declined and was abandoned by the early 800's. Theories suggest a peasant uprising to remove the minority ruling elite who enforced strict and meager conditions on the poor. Just like the Romans. Will the US empire be the next to fall?
Dia 81 Copan Ruinas - Santa Rosa 106 kms
Had no luck finding a map of Honduras and so I've drawn my own based on the one good map I saw on the wall at the internet cafe. I began today concerned about the vibe in Honduras as there were some sketchy people in the villiage. Also, the weather looked threatening and I didn't have a map.... My early fears were unfounded as once I climbed out of the valley, the clouds burned off and it turned out to be a great day of cycling on good roads devoid of traffic. The scenery was grand... I stopped for lunch in a place called La Florida and met an exceptional woman named Maria Pinto. As soon as I saw her walking across the street, she struck me as being someone special.. It turned out, she was the mother of the proprietor of the restaurant. 64 years old and she just glowed with beauty. Her smile never shrunk from ear to ear for the entire time it took for her daughter to prepare my lunch. We began talking and laughing about life. She had had 10 children and was now tired of relationships with men as she commented that it was no different than having another child to care for, another mouth to feed. Physically, she had the body of a 25 year old. Her daughter was probably 20 and out of shape.... Later in the day, I climbed a lot. Beautiful country and sparse traffic had changed my early uncertainties into comfortable confidence. I made it to Santa Rosa where I was surprised to find another beautiful, colonial city the likes of which I'd not seen since Oaxaca...
Dia 82 Santa Rosa - Gracias 50kms
I lingered in Santa Rosa this morning as I knew I'd take a short day today. Also, I was determined to find a map of Honduras as it makes me very uncomfortable to have to depend on the directions of the locals. Found one at the tourist office and when I asked the attendant to see it, she couldn't even find Santa Rosa!! I had to show here what part of Honduras we were in!! Shoved off to a continuation of the beauty I had seen yesterday. I'm so impressed with Honduras so far! The houses are neat and earthy. The predominant material being adobe, painted white with gray or brown trim. Very little of the gaudy colors so popular in other parts of Latin America. The tradition roofing material is ceramic, terra cotta tiles. Most yards have lush gardens of flowers and fruits.
My friend Fernando was so right on when he told me about how awesome Honduras would be for cycling. And the food has been great as well. Fresh everything, tons of fruits and veggies available on the roadside. Really good diet here and the people look healthy... The cold cane juice I had yesterday was delicious, and today's melon juice too! OK, so I'm only 2 days into Honduras, but, wow! The riding has been fantastic with big climbs and ripping descents on well paved roads, largely empty of traffic. The flat part of Honduras, I haven't seen yet..... The mountains are big and usually shrouded in clouds. Flowers, trees, clear rivers..... I could live here happily....Why have I not heard more about Honduras?
Had more good conversation with Juan this AM. He warned me about the deteriorating situation in Guatemala City with it's gangs and heavy, violent crime. Now, I'm certain not to pass through there! He confirmed my feelings about the difficulties faced by immigrants to the US. He lived through 11 years of misstreatment and low pay. And he had papers! He's happy to stay in Guatemala now as he's got 3 great kids and a foxy wife. His first wife died a couple of years ago.
Have I even hinted yet that this is a very hard bike ride? Or that it is not pure pleasure? Get the message? Today's 89 mostly flat, hot kms were not fun. The road was fine, good shoulder. The views quite scenic. Only one hard climb. So what do I have to complain about? I'm now so physically fried that my normally positive outlook is compromised. In fact, today, I'd call it a poutlook! The wind had a lot to do with my sufferage today. It started as a light wind and seemed to increase in intensity as the day wore on. Or was it just that my state of exhaustion was growing? Also, I flatted. Probably, my own personal demons were busy as well. Lot's of questions today, huh? I hope a good night's sleep provides me with some answers....
Dia 79 Zacapa - Copan 85kms
I expected to have bad legs again today, but to my surprise, I feel strong. After leaving Zacapa, I climbed for a while, then dropped into Chiquimula. Had an early lunch and carried on to the junction that would head my into Honduras. This is where the real climb began. Another of the baby chainring variety. Climbed above the desert into much cooler and prettier terrain as I neared the border. Passed through some gorgeous valleys and within 2k of the border crossing, I flatted. As I was fixing it, a pretty schoolteacher named Nora came walking along and my attention was adjusted in her direction. A taxi came along and swooped her up as a local indigenous man and another taxi driver came by to "help" me with my repair. They were so busy asking the questions and talking to each other that I couldn't hear the leak and thusly guessed that I had repaired my flat. I remounted and pushed on toward the border, only to discover that my tire was flat again. Now, I was pissed, as it was getting late. This time, I fixed it properly without help and sprinted toward the border. Crossed easily as usual and climbed for about 10k to get to Copan Ruins. It seems such an injustice to me that those of us who hold US passpòrts can cross these borders so easily, while Central Americans have a hard time moving between countries..... Met a couple of tourists in Copan ruins and had a few drinks with them. Icy from Germany and Barbara from California.
Dia 80 Copan Ruinas
After breakfast, went to the ruins to be wowed once again. This is perhaps not the grandest site I've seen, but certainly the most artistic. The rock carving here is off the charts. It sports steles as large as Bonampak with much more detailed inscription. Also, there's the hieroglythic staircase that tell's the story of this city through it's 400 year heyday. Tunnels reveal earlier structures that were covered by succeeding rulers. Facinating stuff! Just as the other great Mayan cities of the era, it declined and was abandoned by the early 800's. Theories suggest a peasant uprising to remove the minority ruling elite who enforced strict and meager conditions on the poor. Just like the Romans. Will the US empire be the next to fall?
Dia 81 Copan Ruinas - Santa Rosa 106 kms
Had no luck finding a map of Honduras and so I've drawn my own based on the one good map I saw on the wall at the internet cafe. I began today concerned about the vibe in Honduras as there were some sketchy people in the villiage. Also, the weather looked threatening and I didn't have a map.... My early fears were unfounded as once I climbed out of the valley, the clouds burned off and it turned out to be a great day of cycling on good roads devoid of traffic. The scenery was grand... I stopped for lunch in a place called La Florida and met an exceptional woman named Maria Pinto. As soon as I saw her walking across the street, she struck me as being someone special.. It turned out, she was the mother of the proprietor of the restaurant. 64 years old and she just glowed with beauty. Her smile never shrunk from ear to ear for the entire time it took for her daughter to prepare my lunch. We began talking and laughing about life. She had had 10 children and was now tired of relationships with men as she commented that it was no different than having another child to care for, another mouth to feed. Physically, she had the body of a 25 year old. Her daughter was probably 20 and out of shape.... Later in the day, I climbed a lot. Beautiful country and sparse traffic had changed my early uncertainties into comfortable confidence. I made it to Santa Rosa where I was surprised to find another beautiful, colonial city the likes of which I'd not seen since Oaxaca...
Dia 82 Santa Rosa - Gracias 50kms
I lingered in Santa Rosa this morning as I knew I'd take a short day today. Also, I was determined to find a map of Honduras as it makes me very uncomfortable to have to depend on the directions of the locals. Found one at the tourist office and when I asked the attendant to see it, she couldn't even find Santa Rosa!! I had to show here what part of Honduras we were in!! Shoved off to a continuation of the beauty I had seen yesterday. I'm so impressed with Honduras so far! The houses are neat and earthy. The predominant material being adobe, painted white with gray or brown trim. Very little of the gaudy colors so popular in other parts of Latin America. The tradition roofing material is ceramic, terra cotta tiles. Most yards have lush gardens of flowers and fruits.
My friend Fernando was so right on when he told me about how awesome Honduras would be for cycling. And the food has been great as well. Fresh everything, tons of fruits and veggies available on the roadside. Really good diet here and the people look healthy... The cold cane juice I had yesterday was delicious, and today's melon juice too! OK, so I'm only 2 days into Honduras, but, wow! The riding has been fantastic with big climbs and ripping descents on well paved roads, largely empty of traffic. The flat part of Honduras, I haven't seen yet..... The mountains are big and usually shrouded in clouds. Flowers, trees, clear rivers..... I could live here happily....Why have I not heard more about Honduras?
posted by Bicycle Bob at
12:36 PM
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