Dia 83 Gracias - La Esperanza 84kms
I made the mistake of not visiting an ATM back in Santa Rosa where banks were plentiful, thinking that Gracias would surely have one. NOT! So I scrimped and cooked all of my emergency food to make it to La Esperanza, where the people in Gracias assured me I would find an ATM. I did find one, but it's Sunday night, and the machine was out of funds. So, I'm down to my last 3 Lempiras (15 cents.) I've eaten all my food, so I need to get creative. I could beg on the street, but that would be bad form... So I asked the cops if there was a hotel in town that would accept a credit card. They didn't think so, but they told me to go try the Hotel Mejia Batres. So, I went there and the attendant, Flora started to send me elsewhere, when a Danish girl named Maria, who was a guest at the hotel came to my rescue. She had overheard my converstion with Flora, and generously offered to pay for my room and dinner 'til I could straighten out my finances tomorrow. She promptly handed me 200 Lempiras. I responded by asking her to join me for dinner and she accepted. She wound up being a very interesting person whom I now count on my growing list of friends that I've made on this trip.. She's also quite attractive which was a treat for my weary eyes to behold.
Oh yeah, I rode my bike again today! And what a day! I climbed a bunch on mostly dirt road 'til I found myself in a pine- oak forest that looked very much like home. Nice mountains and big canyons all day long......
Dia 84 La Esperanza "The Hope"
Made coffee and shared breakfast with Maria this morning which was a pleasant start to my day. I decided to stay in La Esperanza for a few days as I'm whipped and I feel so comfortable here. Went back to the 1 ATM in town and it worked, no problem. Whew! Washed clothes, did a pretty thorough revision on the noodle and generally took it easy. Met a moto mechanic named Alfonso who loaned me a cresent wrench so I could extract my BB. He wound up being a well traveled fellow who had been through Durango years before..... Later, invited Maria for coffee and she introduced me to Nicolas, who has an organic coffee plantation near here. Another Honduaran with the perpetual ear to ear smile. We had great conversation about all kinds of subjects which continues to enrich my experience greatly. Had dinner again with Maria as we've become good friends in a short time. She's a very ethical person who's beautiful personality is complemented nicely by her physical attributes. Anyway, it's so nice to be in the company of such a fine person....
Dia 85 La Esperanza
Another morning coffee with Maria before she shoves off for other places... Alone again, but not lonely. Today, I'll hit the internet hard to try and bring y'all up to date with the doings of Bicycle Bob...Had a dream come true moment this afternoon. I had walked and climbed to a nice viewpoint overlooking the town. I found a comfy spot to sit and contemplate, and I almost fell asleep. To the sound of female voices, I looked up to find that a half dozen attractive international aid workers had climbed to my overlook. They apologized for interupting my quietude which was not at all the case. I assured them that after almost 3 months of relative solitude, a pack of good looking chicks was not at all a problem for me. So they quizzed me and I quizzed them and we laughed the day away....
Dia 86 La Esperanza - El Mescalito 53 kms
this day is right up there with being one of my favorite riding days of this entire journey! Mostly dirt and awesome country. It was a mountain bike ride, really as I was picking lines all day. It was predominantly pine forest again with isolated patches of more tropical vegetation in the valleys. Got to Marcala and decided that I like the dirt so much that I should look for a shortcut or something. Went to the municipal building and asked for detailed maps, which they actually had on their computer. They kindly printed me a copy and I confidently proceeded toward El Salvador. Along the way, I found an awesome spring, a nice cool cave, tons of fabulous viewpoints and wound up at one of my favorite campspots to date. I absolutely love Honduras! The countryside, the food, the people, gorgeous women, tasteful campesino houses, good coffee..... From my vantage point, the sun is setting as I view distantly to the south and west. My dinner is cooking on the campfire nearby while I laze in my hammock. Yeah, today is a good day!!! Tomorrow, El Salvador.
Dia 87 El Mescalito - San Francisco Gotera 66 kms
It's the morning and I'm moved to comment. Since my stinkin' cheap-ass Kodak kicked the bucket at the Mex-Guate border, I've been unable to record this trip visually. I'm now limited to words to try and describe the scene that surrounds me. I'm lingering at this campspot because I can! I'm on a high, flat topped ridge top promontory. It's an open glade that's ringed with big pines and oaks. Distant views in all directions are filtered through the branches. The glade itself is carpeted with ferns and flowers. The clouds move in opposite directions with a low flow out of the southwest and a higher, stronger flow out of the northeast. I watched the NE flow come in last night while gazing at the moon. It brought with it much moisture as dew began to collect as soon as it arrived. This morning, everything is dripping wet. I'm waiting for the clouds to lift as I write so my stuff can dry out....
The last 2 days really, I've been mountain biking. I'm so glad for my fat tires as it really makes it enjoyable. My adjusted route has taken me into El Salvador, which is where I am now. I crossed at a very remote checkpoint where the border guys were all surprised to see me. They are all really friendly and interested, the cops and the military folks as well. It's crazy how often I'm warned about the dangers down the road. They all claim "Aqui es tranquilo," but watch out for the thugs, murderers and thieves down the road who are almost certain to rob you, beat you, kill you, and then rape you. Of course, when I arrive "down the road," the people are as mellow and kind as they were in the last place, where I received my warning....... I've come to the conclusion, based on my experiences on this trip, that we humans are basically good. If approached with good intentions, they will respond in kind. Of course, I don't seek out the gnarliest ghettos to test my theory........ So I'm looking at yet another spectacular sunset, this one with a perfect volcano to the south....
Dia 88 Gotera - San Lorenzo 111 kms
Got a good jump start this AM, as I thought I had a long haul to get across before re-entering Honduras. You see, maps of El Salvador are also impossible to locate. You ask how far, and they immediately look confused, look around for someone else who might have a clue, and then they make up an answer.... It's a Latin thing.... Otherwise intellegent people are clueless about distances. The best answer you can get is in hours of travel by bus...... As it turned out, in spite of a hot, dry headwind, I made it to the crossing before lunch. Oh yeah, had a nice lesson this AM after leaving Gotera. I noticed a brickyard where they were manufacturing "Tejas." We call them terra cotta tiles. I stopped to look over the fence as I'm interested in the process. I was instantly invited in and was given the full tour. From the mud mixed with grass, to the form, to the shaper, the drying times, the kiln..... I'm psyched.... Such an elegant roofing material.
I've taken to always carrying a bag of hard candy with me so I can hook up the kids who shout "Gringo!" at me. Stopped today at probably the poorest looking structure I've seen this entire trip. An actual cardboard shack with about a dozen naked or mostly naked, barefoot, dirty kids running around like crazy 'cause the gringo actually stopped!!! The mothers came out to see what all the fuss was about, each carrying another baby or two on their hips. I asked them to give me back the wrappers so I could throw them away properly.....
Limped into San Lorenzo, hot and beat from the dry wind and the mounting kms.......
Dia 89 San Lorenzo - El Banquito 73kms
Another early start to try and beat the heat. It still got me as by mid morning, I was glistening in sweat. San Lorenzo was on the coast, but I didn't even make the effort to go to the water as my mission now is focused on food and sleep. The roads in Honduras have been the best so far, with decent width and normally a shoulder. Light traffic as well. Got waved over at a police checkpoint this AM and had a fun encounter with about 6 cops. They were all laughing as I rode up and they wound up being hilarious. They just wanted to hear the story..... After I passed Choluteca, as I'd been warned, the climb began. I'm so glad to be back up high as the heat destroys me. The climb itself was nice as the views just kept expanding and the temperature dropped. Stopped early when I was going by a hotel and the owner came out and offered me a room for free. Turns out, he was very drunk and wound up charging me $10. Which made it the most expensive lodging since Mexico..... Before arrival, I rode with a father and son for a few kms. Met the hotel cook, Maria who is also a journalist. I was able to get a good idea about the political climate in Honduras, which is split, like everwhere. The current Prez is a leftist who just entertained Hugo Chavez for the past few days, signing accords regarding fuel supplies, etc. Most of Latin America is turning Left...
Another amazing viewpoint behind the hotel, overlooking the Bay of Fonseca and back into El Salvador. 3 volcanoes are in sight as I again watch the sun descend behind the horizon, painting the clouds along the way....
I made the mistake of not visiting an ATM back in Santa Rosa where banks were plentiful, thinking that Gracias would surely have one. NOT! So I scrimped and cooked all of my emergency food to make it to La Esperanza, where the people in Gracias assured me I would find an ATM. I did find one, but it's Sunday night, and the machine was out of funds. So, I'm down to my last 3 Lempiras (15 cents.) I've eaten all my food, so I need to get creative. I could beg on the street, but that would be bad form... So I asked the cops if there was a hotel in town that would accept a credit card. They didn't think so, but they told me to go try the Hotel Mejia Batres. So, I went there and the attendant, Flora started to send me elsewhere, when a Danish girl named Maria, who was a guest at the hotel came to my rescue. She had overheard my converstion with Flora, and generously offered to pay for my room and dinner 'til I could straighten out my finances tomorrow. She promptly handed me 200 Lempiras. I responded by asking her to join me for dinner and she accepted. She wound up being a very interesting person whom I now count on my growing list of friends that I've made on this trip.. She's also quite attractive which was a treat for my weary eyes to behold.
Oh yeah, I rode my bike again today! And what a day! I climbed a bunch on mostly dirt road 'til I found myself in a pine- oak forest that looked very much like home. Nice mountains and big canyons all day long......
Dia 84 La Esperanza "The Hope"
Made coffee and shared breakfast with Maria this morning which was a pleasant start to my day. I decided to stay in La Esperanza for a few days as I'm whipped and I feel so comfortable here. Went back to the 1 ATM in town and it worked, no problem. Whew! Washed clothes, did a pretty thorough revision on the noodle and generally took it easy. Met a moto mechanic named Alfonso who loaned me a cresent wrench so I could extract my BB. He wound up being a well traveled fellow who had been through Durango years before..... Later, invited Maria for coffee and she introduced me to Nicolas, who has an organic coffee plantation near here. Another Honduaran with the perpetual ear to ear smile. We had great conversation about all kinds of subjects which continues to enrich my experience greatly. Had dinner again with Maria as we've become good friends in a short time. She's a very ethical person who's beautiful personality is complemented nicely by her physical attributes. Anyway, it's so nice to be in the company of such a fine person....
Dia 85 La Esperanza
Another morning coffee with Maria before she shoves off for other places... Alone again, but not lonely. Today, I'll hit the internet hard to try and bring y'all up to date with the doings of Bicycle Bob...Had a dream come true moment this afternoon. I had walked and climbed to a nice viewpoint overlooking the town. I found a comfy spot to sit and contemplate, and I almost fell asleep. To the sound of female voices, I looked up to find that a half dozen attractive international aid workers had climbed to my overlook. They apologized for interupting my quietude which was not at all the case. I assured them that after almost 3 months of relative solitude, a pack of good looking chicks was not at all a problem for me. So they quizzed me and I quizzed them and we laughed the day away....
Dia 86 La Esperanza - El Mescalito 53 kms
this day is right up there with being one of my favorite riding days of this entire journey! Mostly dirt and awesome country. It was a mountain bike ride, really as I was picking lines all day. It was predominantly pine forest again with isolated patches of more tropical vegetation in the valleys. Got to Marcala and decided that I like the dirt so much that I should look for a shortcut or something. Went to the municipal building and asked for detailed maps, which they actually had on their computer. They kindly printed me a copy and I confidently proceeded toward El Salvador. Along the way, I found an awesome spring, a nice cool cave, tons of fabulous viewpoints and wound up at one of my favorite campspots to date. I absolutely love Honduras! The countryside, the food, the people, gorgeous women, tasteful campesino houses, good coffee..... From my vantage point, the sun is setting as I view distantly to the south and west. My dinner is cooking on the campfire nearby while I laze in my hammock. Yeah, today is a good day!!! Tomorrow, El Salvador.
Dia 87 El Mescalito - San Francisco Gotera 66 kms
It's the morning and I'm moved to comment. Since my stinkin' cheap-ass Kodak kicked the bucket at the Mex-Guate border, I've been unable to record this trip visually. I'm now limited to words to try and describe the scene that surrounds me. I'm lingering at this campspot because I can! I'm on a high, flat topped ridge top promontory. It's an open glade that's ringed with big pines and oaks. Distant views in all directions are filtered through the branches. The glade itself is carpeted with ferns and flowers. The clouds move in opposite directions with a low flow out of the southwest and a higher, stronger flow out of the northeast. I watched the NE flow come in last night while gazing at the moon. It brought with it much moisture as dew began to collect as soon as it arrived. This morning, everything is dripping wet. I'm waiting for the clouds to lift as I write so my stuff can dry out....
The last 2 days really, I've been mountain biking. I'm so glad for my fat tires as it really makes it enjoyable. My adjusted route has taken me into El Salvador, which is where I am now. I crossed at a very remote checkpoint where the border guys were all surprised to see me. They are all really friendly and interested, the cops and the military folks as well. It's crazy how often I'm warned about the dangers down the road. They all claim "Aqui es tranquilo," but watch out for the thugs, murderers and thieves down the road who are almost certain to rob you, beat you, kill you, and then rape you. Of course, when I arrive "down the road," the people are as mellow and kind as they were in the last place, where I received my warning....... I've come to the conclusion, based on my experiences on this trip, that we humans are basically good. If approached with good intentions, they will respond in kind. Of course, I don't seek out the gnarliest ghettos to test my theory........ So I'm looking at yet another spectacular sunset, this one with a perfect volcano to the south....
Dia 88 Gotera - San Lorenzo 111 kms
Got a good jump start this AM, as I thought I had a long haul to get across before re-entering Honduras. You see, maps of El Salvador are also impossible to locate. You ask how far, and they immediately look confused, look around for someone else who might have a clue, and then they make up an answer.... It's a Latin thing.... Otherwise intellegent people are clueless about distances. The best answer you can get is in hours of travel by bus...... As it turned out, in spite of a hot, dry headwind, I made it to the crossing before lunch. Oh yeah, had a nice lesson this AM after leaving Gotera. I noticed a brickyard where they were manufacturing "Tejas." We call them terra cotta tiles. I stopped to look over the fence as I'm interested in the process. I was instantly invited in and was given the full tour. From the mud mixed with grass, to the form, to the shaper, the drying times, the kiln..... I'm psyched.... Such an elegant roofing material.
I've taken to always carrying a bag of hard candy with me so I can hook up the kids who shout "Gringo!" at me. Stopped today at probably the poorest looking structure I've seen this entire trip. An actual cardboard shack with about a dozen naked or mostly naked, barefoot, dirty kids running around like crazy 'cause the gringo actually stopped!!! The mothers came out to see what all the fuss was about, each carrying another baby or two on their hips. I asked them to give me back the wrappers so I could throw them away properly.....
Limped into San Lorenzo, hot and beat from the dry wind and the mounting kms.......
Dia 89 San Lorenzo - El Banquito 73kms
Another early start to try and beat the heat. It still got me as by mid morning, I was glistening in sweat. San Lorenzo was on the coast, but I didn't even make the effort to go to the water as my mission now is focused on food and sleep. The roads in Honduras have been the best so far, with decent width and normally a shoulder. Light traffic as well. Got waved over at a police checkpoint this AM and had a fun encounter with about 6 cops. They were all laughing as I rode up and they wound up being hilarious. They just wanted to hear the story..... After I passed Choluteca, as I'd been warned, the climb began. I'm so glad to be back up high as the heat destroys me. The climb itself was nice as the views just kept expanding and the temperature dropped. Stopped early when I was going by a hotel and the owner came out and offered me a room for free. Turns out, he was very drunk and wound up charging me $10. Which made it the most expensive lodging since Mexico..... Before arrival, I rode with a father and son for a few kms. Met the hotel cook, Maria who is also a journalist. I was able to get a good idea about the political climate in Honduras, which is split, like everwhere. The current Prez is a leftist who just entertained Hugo Chavez for the past few days, signing accords regarding fuel supplies, etc. Most of Latin America is turning Left...
Another amazing viewpoint behind the hotel, overlooking the Bay of Fonseca and back into El Salvador. 3 volcanoes are in sight as I again watch the sun descend behind the horizon, painting the clouds along the way....
posted by Bicycle Bob at
3:03 PM
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