Bicycle Bob's Blog

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 06 Feb 2008 15:21:00 +0000

Dia 106 San Ramon - Heredia 66kms 7,300kms

Durango, Colorado to Heredia, Costa Rica! 3 1-2 months and I´m here! Rather than a never-ending soap-opera, this story has an end,,,, which creates another beginning. But that´s another story!

Started late from San Ramon as I underestimated the length and difficulty of this ride. The ride itself was spectacular as I traversed the old highway, which has been bypassed by the Panamerican Hwy. Very rolly and curvy, I passed through Naranjo, Sarchi, where I made a new friend at lunch, Grecia, Alajuela, Santa Barbara and Barva before landing in Heredia just as the sun was setting.

106 days that will forever live in my memory. The result positive. Physically, I´ve changed my location from Durango, Colorado to Heredia, Costa Rica. Personally, I´ve changed my perspective an equally large distance. Spiritually, I´ve evolved my relationship with the holy....

I give thanks, for the opportunity, thanks for the strength, thanks for the tailwinds, the friendships, the love, the protection, the sky, the mountains, the valleys, the coastline, the deserts, the jungle, the cities, the ruins, the food, the beer,,, the noodle,,,,,, the luck...

I dedicate my safe arrival to all of you who have sent me vibes!!!!!

Bob Gregorio

February 6, 2008

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 05 Feb 2008 15:53:00 +0000

Dia 104 Montezuma - Paquera Ferry - Puntarenas 49kms

The boat ticket wound up being a farce as they told me in the AM, (After seeing my loaded bike,) that they could take me, but not the bike! So I got my money back and started riding for the Ferry. This cost me almost 2 days, but you know what? I don't care!! I'm still gonna arrive and it's still gonna be sweet! I'll just adjust my route and pedal my bike 'til I get there... So nice to be flexible, and at least with a bike,,, I always have the option of riding it...... That's what this is all about!! It was a sweet ride to the ferry, and when I got there, I just cruised right on board. The boat ticket fiasco was a hassle, but I'm in such a relaxed state that nothing bothers me... So I'm poised to finish this little ride of mine, maybe 2 more days before I reach Heredia....

Dia 105 Puntarenas - San Ramon 69kms

Met some more gringo developer type guys at breakfast. One had been here all of 5 weks and come to the conclusion that "These people cannot be trusted." Even though he didn't speak Spanish....... He should know about mistrust, I suppose. I've picked a mostly dirt route to get me to San Ramon, which is an easy day from Heredia. The first segment was steep and rocky, but scenic and untraveled. The next piece started out so sweet, 'til I was told that there's a dead end in my future. My map indicates that it goes through, and I trusted it as it's a National Geographic map. Well, this time the locals were right, and my map wrong... I had to backtrack, lost 2 hours in the process. At least it was a beautiful 2 hour mistake! I had to ride the dreaded Panamerican highway for a while to correct my direction. Costa Rica's road system is Central America's worst. Even though it's considered the wealthiest country.... Where's the money going? So tomorrow will likely be my last day of the "Liberty Tour." Vuelta de Libertad. It won't sink in 'til I unpack the noodle and find a home.........

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 05 Feb 2008 00:59:00 +0000

Dia 99 Nicoya - San Juan de Leon 71kms

Made contact with Mark and Marla and have decided to ride to Montezuma to hang with them and hang in my hammock. There are various route choices, and I've decided to take the dirt. Super steep and rough. Just my style!! There's some beautiful mountains and valleys hidden here in inland Nicoya. Found a pulperia to stock up with camp supplies and headed off to find a good camp. Within a few kms, I dropped to a stream crossing with plenty of beautiful campspots to chose from. Once I had camp established, a vaquero came by and gave me permission to camp here. I'm being serenaded as I write. The jungle is singing its song. Babbling brook, boisterous birds, frogs, insects, howling monkeys. My fire crackles to complete the symphony. Time for dinner!

Dia 100 San Juan de Leon - Montezuma 50kms

Slept a little late, Made coffee and breakfast, packed up and cruised. More mountain bikin' today, and still a rough surface. Only 50k, but I'm cooked as it was very hot, with tons of super-steep climbs. Got to Cobano hungry and beat up. Filled my tank and dropped into M&M's place above Montezuma. I'm sitting on their deck looking out over the Pacific as the sun sinks toward the western horizon. We've watched agouti, deer, pizotes and parrots, as they live here too. The monkeys are sure to visit soon. Spectacular setting to rest up for a few days....

Dia 101 Montezuma

Spent a fine and restful day. Nicoya, M&M's daughter, is a constant source of joy with her engaging and happy innocence. Helped with a little bikework and continued to become informed about M&M's trail building design business. They've offered me a job, working with them at some yet to be determined level. It's food for thought... Went into Montezuma and met some of the rastas, selling their wares on the beach. Another visitor, Gene, also from Colorado, arrived this PM. He's a downhill coach. Now we're all brainstorming about bike stuff.

Dia 102 Montezuma

Continued rest....

Dia 103 Montezuma

Finally ready to leave after a nice couple of days. After exiting M&M's, I dropped into Montezuma, then bought a ticket for tomorrow morning's boat ride to Jaco. Then rode down the coast a ways 'til I found the perfect spot to hang my hammock, which I occupied for the rest of the PM, while contemplating the pounding surf. Camped on the beach with only the stars above me as I continued to be mellowed by the constant song of the sea......

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:51:00 +0000

Dia 96 Isla Ometepe - Rivas 19kms

Partied last night with some other folks who were camping near me. 2 French girls, Marine and Cecilia and a dude from Barcelona named Mark. Gabriel from Austin joined in and we made music 'til the wee hours. Today, on to the mainland and toward my goal of Costa Rica. This morning, I woke up to see a new tent near mine. Out poked a couple of heads and they saw my bike with the Cyclery paraphenalia all over it. "Are you from Durango?" they asked. "Yeah, so are we!" Peter and Brandon Carver introduced themselves and we spoke for a hour about home, travel, etc. Small world!!

Dia 97 Rivas - Liberia 117kms

Had breakfast with 4 Ticos and then cruised to the border, which was a total "cluster fxxx." Not a single sign was visable to guide one through the confusing maze of buildings to first exit Nicaragua, then enter Costa Rica. Tons of offical acting and unofficial looking "helpers" approach with instructions to "follow me." After guiding you to the right window, they hold out their hands for a tip as they don't work for the government at all. In fact they've probably eliminated all of the signs themselves.... One kid, no more than 12 years old, was trying to act official and guide me to get my bike fumigated. By now, I saw that this was bullshit and ditched him. He was shouting after me as I rode away. I managed to make my way through the mess by myself.... Caught a decent tailwind and made it to Liberia, where I'm staying at Nene and Lulu's place tonight. YEAH!!!! I'm in Costa Rica!!!!

Dia 98 Liberia - Nicoya 86 kms

Had nice conversations with Lulu last night and this AM as Nene's off with Paulo guiding a group of cyclists. I was treated like a king in the "Hotel Romero." Gonna try to hook up with Karla's family in Nicoya tonight as I move toward Montezuma, Where Marla, Mark and Nicoya have a place. I want to chill for a few days at a nice place before landing for real. Not in a hurry for this trip to end! Had a hot ride and made it to Karla's family's home, where once again, I'm received with open arms. Took a stroll last night with Don Carlos, Dona Zoila and brother Jhonny to check out the oldest church in Costa Rica. 1544!!! Quite impressive! So nice to have friends!!

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 29 Jan 2008 14:04:00 +0000

Dia 95 Isla Ometepe 31 kms

Last night, after arrival on the island, I was approached by 3 young fellas while eating dinner. They wanted to speak English with me and began by trying to invite me to drink beer with them. Due to their limited grasp of our language, their invitation sounded something like this: Beer,,, wit, (motion of inclusion) mony,,, you! I misinterpreted, thinking they wanted me to buy them beer, so I scolded them in Spanish for begging beer from a visitor... They shrunk away and sat at another table..... Being a tourist means being hounded at times for money. A little later, one of them got up the guts to come back over and explain, in Spanish, that they only wanted to invite me to drink with them so they could practice their English with me. I apologized for misunderstanding and joined them. We proceeded to have a fun time drinking, while they quizzed me about pronunciation and grammer. They wound up being 3 super cool and motivated 19-20 year olds. I'm so glad that we cleared up the misunderstanding, as I now have 3 more great friends!

Today, as I rolled out of Altagracia to check out the island, I was approached by yet another young man who insisted on being my guide. I told him, I've made it nearly 7000 kms without a guide, I think I can manage it alone.... As I started to ride off, he grabbed his bike and followed, assuring me in his barely understandable English that a guide is very necessary here. "You can pay me a little," he said. So I had to wait for him as he couldn't match my pace, then he couldn't answer any of my questions about the flora and fauna as he didn't have a clue. Then, he wanted to take me in directions that I didn't want to go. I finally had to flat out tell him to get lost. Not wanting to seem too harsh, I gave him a couple dollars worth of Cordobas. He responded by storming off complaining about how cheap I was.....

On my own, I was able somehow to locate an area filled with precolumbian petroglyphs. Then I moved on toward the leeward side of the island to check out a recommended viewpoint called the "Mïrador del Diablo." The island is situated near the middle of Lake Nicaragua, which is like the size of one of the great lakes, in other words, Huge. It is formed by 2 volcanoes, one of which is visably active. I arrived at the access for the Mirador, to see a monster climb in front of me. Not wanting to expend too much energy, I found an abandoned palapa and hung my hammock. It had an exquisite view of the lake to the west and the active volcano Concepcion behind me to the east. I'd hang looking west for awhile, then turn a 180 and watch the volcano. Hours passed peacefully, 'til I was startled by the squawking of many birds which I recognized as Parrots. I turned to have a look and was astounded by a flock of easily 1000 parrots feasting in a field of grain not more that 150 meters away. They would roost in nearby trees and fly in groups of hundreds to land in the grainfield to chow down. This dance in flight continued for 45 minutes until the entire group had their fill and flew off en masse to a brilliant display of sunlight playing off their colorful bodies. They did a bunch of passes over the grainfield and over me as I watched in amazement. I could hear the sound of the flock cutting through the wind as they moved as one..... After they flew off, I did the same and rode on to tonight's magical campspot on the shore of the lake. I write as the sunset reflects off it's waters......

Bicycle Bob — Thu, 24 Jan 2008 15:36:00 +0000

Dia 90 El Banquito - Somoto 56kms

Tore myself away from Honduras today and cruised into Nicaragua. Stopped in San Marcos de Colon along the way to burn up what remained of my Honduran phone cards and was able to either talk to ar leave messages with my entire family, including the "Cyclery Family." Hard head wind today, although the distant, clear views make it tolerable. So, I've made it into Nicaragua, where once again, maps and ATMs are rare. So I find myself here in Somoto with limited Cordobas and once again at the mercy of local direction givers. I find out the nearest ATMs are 70kms down the road, too far for this tired biker to attempt today.... I do have a few Cordobas I traded for the leftover Lempiras and dollars I had. While searching for a cheap room, I encountered a couple of Canadian motorcyclists who in turn introduced me to Sal, their Nicaraguan guide. They listened to my story and Sal promptly whipped out his wallet and insisted I take $20! He had done a transcontinental moto journey and claimed that he was shown this brand of kindness repeatedly. He only asked that I pass it on to another needy traveler when their need arises...... I dropped some elevation after crossing the border, but it's still nice and cool here..... Oh yeah, another cooincidence today, when I stopped in San Marcos to make my phone calls, I ran into the same man whom I spoke to yesterday in another pueblo back down the road. I invited him to have a cold drink with me and he accepted. He was another of the ear to ear grin tribe. And his front tooth with a gold star on it shone prominantly. He had a smile that reminded me of Bob Roll, just made me want to laugh!! Jose Octavio something or other..... The wind is still howling tonight...

Dia 91 Somoto - Esteli 72 kms

Shared breakfast this AM with my moto buds and then moved on. Started in a light mist and it continued cloudy for much of the day, which helped make it a comfortable ride. Plus, after a few kms, the mist stopped and the wind kicked in behind me. Much of today was uphill, but the wind made it easy going. Great road with mild traffic once again. Made it to Esteli and decided to stay as I now had Cordobas and I'd like to bring the blog up to date.... It's beginning to sink in that I'm nearing the completion of this segment of my journey. The bikin' to Costa Rica part, that is. I do intend to continue the journey though in every other way. The pursuit of "Libertad," and beauty and justice and knowledge and understanding....... Peace, in my heart,in the world.......

Dia 92 Esteli - Tipitapa 133 kms

Today, I started early in the coolness. An early climb warmed me up, followed by a downhill tendency all day long. I entered another windy zone that reminded me of Tehuantepec, but nowhere near as strong. It was a side wind out of the east that at times favored me, at times not. Came over a small pass and got my first view of Lake Managua and it's surrounding volcanos. As I descended, it got hotter and dryer, not my favorite condition. Still haven't found a good map of Nicaragua. The tourist office in Esteli only had a Budget rent a car version that mostly shows where you can rent one of their gas burners. It's crazy that no one has maps here in Central America. Next time, (did I just say next time?) I'll acquire maps before I leave home and carry them along..... I'm so tired right now I can barely lift the pen to write. Even my brain is too tired to think. Guess I'll just drink beer and eat! At the restaurant, I struck up a converstion with Mariela, the waitress. She told me her story, which I think is a common one here in Latin America. Has 2 children, her man then left her 3 years ago without any support. She works for a monthly salary which is 2000 Cordobas a month ($110.) 6 days a week from 8 AM 'til midnight!!! I left her a healthy tip to kind of pass on Sal's generousity from 2 days ago...

I'm watching the world spinning right now as the full moon peaks out above the palms. I love to watch the world spin!!

Dia 93 Tipitapa - Granada 45kms

Found out from the guys at the Hotel Tikal that the ferry leaves at 1PM from the dock in Granada today. I'm gonna go for it as I'd like to hang out for a couple of days on the island Ometepe before pushing on into Costa Rica. So I shoved off early without breakfast as nothing opens around these parts 'til 9 or 10AM. I really crawled at first because this hard east wind is still blowing and without fuel in my tank, I'm hopeless. Found breakfast before Masaya and burned it as I powered into Granada. On the way in, a slow, loaded farm truck came by me and I sprinted to get in it's wake. It pulled me along for about 5 k and I found myself in Granada in time to make the ferry. Only think was, more bad info. The ferry doesn't leave 'til manaña! I guess I'll use this extra time to check out Granada and bring the blog up to "real time." Anyway, all the heat and wind has zapped me. I'd much rather climb mountains!!!

Dia 94 Granada - waiting for the ferry

A day off the bike today as I wait for this afternoon's ferry ride to Isla Ometepe. I strolled around Granada last night to check it out. Has some nice old buildings, but it's just another cheap ass tourist trap. Granada is another colonial city that's situated on the north shore of Lake Nicaragua. It's in the shadow of Volcan Mombache, which towers above directly to the west. It was probably quite beautiful many moons ago... It's famous for being the temporary home of American William Walker, who attempted to rule Central America with his army of mercenaries in the 1850's. He was eventually defeated, but managed to burn Granada to the ground in the process. He was perhaps the first "Ugly American" to visit here.

Ducked into a local tavern for a cold brew and met 2 ex-pat Americans sitting at the bar. One, Steve, was very talkative and enlightened me about the current land grab. Just as I've witnessed happen in Costa Rica, the foreign tourists are now loving Nicaragua to death. He and his drinking buddy were very boastful about the cheap mansions they bought here and how the young, beautiful "Nicas" are more than happy to marry them for their money. He gave numerous examples of old, rich, gringos who now had young and foxy wives. Neither spoke spanish, although they'd been living here for years. The talkative one told me, "It used to be nice here before all the Gringos discovered it." Now, the central park is ringed with offices for Re-max, Coldwell Banker, etc..... .... The ugly Americans are still trying to burn this place down........ Another thing Steve told me, "Don't wander more than 5 blocks from the central park, or the thugs, thieves and murderers will surely rob you, beat you, kill you and rape you!" "Oh yeah," he added,"the whores work over there, $20." I am so disgusted.........

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:03:00 +0000

Dia 83 Gracias - La Esperanza 84kms

I made the mistake of not visiting an ATM back in Santa Rosa where banks were plentiful, thinking that Gracias would surely have one. NOT! So I scrimped and cooked all of my emergency food to make it to La Esperanza, where the people in Gracias assured me I would find an ATM. I did find one, but it's Sunday night, and the machine was out of funds. So, I'm down to my last 3 Lempiras (15 cents.) I've eaten all my food, so I need to get creative. I could beg on the street, but that would be bad form... So I asked the cops if there was a hotel in town that would accept a credit card. They didn't think so, but they told me to go try the Hotel Mejia Batres. So, I went there and the attendant, Flora started to send me elsewhere, when a Danish girl named Maria, who was a guest at the hotel came to my rescue. She had overheard my converstion with Flora, and generously offered to pay for my room and dinner 'til I could straighten out my finances tomorrow. She promptly handed me 200 Lempiras. I responded by asking her to join me for dinner and she accepted. She wound up being a very interesting person whom I now count on my growing list of friends that I've made on this trip.. She's also quite attractive which was a treat for my weary eyes to behold.

Oh yeah, I rode my bike again today! And what a day! I climbed a bunch on mostly dirt road 'til I found myself in a pine- oak forest that looked very much like home. Nice mountains and big canyons all day long......

Dia 84 La Esperanza "The Hope"

Made coffee and shared breakfast with Maria this morning which was a pleasant start to my day. I decided to stay in La Esperanza for a few days as I'm whipped and I feel so comfortable here. Went back to the 1 ATM in town and it worked, no problem. Whew! Washed clothes, did a pretty thorough revision on the noodle and generally took it easy. Met a moto mechanic named Alfonso who loaned me a cresent wrench so I could extract my BB. He wound up being a well traveled fellow who had been through Durango years before..... Later, invited Maria for coffee and she introduced me to Nicolas, who has an organic coffee plantation near here. Another Honduaran with the perpetual ear to ear smile. We had great conversation about all kinds of subjects which continues to enrich my experience greatly. Had dinner again with Maria as we've become good friends in a short time. She's a very ethical person who's beautiful personality is complemented nicely by her physical attributes. Anyway, it's so nice to be in the company of such a fine person....

Dia 85 La Esperanza

Another morning coffee with Maria before she shoves off for other places... Alone again, but not lonely. Today, I'll hit the internet hard to try and bring y'all up to date with the doings of Bicycle Bob...Had a dream come true moment this afternoon. I had walked and climbed to a nice viewpoint overlooking the town. I found a comfy spot to sit and contemplate, and I almost fell asleep. To the sound of female voices, I looked up to find that a half dozen attractive international aid workers had climbed to my overlook. They apologized for interupting my quietude which was not at all the case. I assured them that after almost 3 months of relative solitude, a pack of good looking chicks was not at all a problem for me. So they quizzed me and I quizzed them and we laughed the day away....

Dia 86 La Esperanza - El Mescalito 53 kms

this day is right up there with being one of my favorite riding days of this entire journey! Mostly dirt and awesome country. It was a mountain bike ride, really as I was picking lines all day. It was predominantly pine forest again with isolated patches of more tropical vegetation in the valleys. Got to Marcala and decided that I like the dirt so much that I should look for a shortcut or something. Went to the municipal building and asked for detailed maps, which they actually had on their computer. They kindly printed me a copy and I confidently proceeded toward El Salvador. Along the way, I found an awesome spring, a nice cool cave, tons of fabulous viewpoints and wound up at one of my favorite campspots to date. I absolutely love Honduras! The countryside, the food, the people, gorgeous women, tasteful campesino houses, good coffee..... From my vantage point, the sun is setting as I view distantly to the south and west. My dinner is cooking on the campfire nearby while I laze in my hammock. Yeah, today is a good day!!! Tomorrow, El Salvador.

Dia 87 El Mescalito - San Francisco Gotera 66 kms

It's the morning and I'm moved to comment. Since my stinkin' cheap-ass Kodak kicked the bucket at the Mex-Guate border, I've been unable to record this trip visually. I'm now limited to words to try and describe the scene that surrounds me. I'm lingering at this campspot because I can! I'm on a high, flat topped ridge top promontory. It's an open glade that's ringed with big pines and oaks. Distant views in all directions are filtered through the branches. The glade itself is carpeted with ferns and flowers. The clouds move in opposite directions with a low flow out of the southwest and a higher, stronger flow out of the northeast. I watched the NE flow come in last night while gazing at the moon. It brought with it much moisture as dew began to collect as soon as it arrived. This morning, everything is dripping wet. I'm waiting for the clouds to lift as I write so my stuff can dry out....

The last 2 days really, I've been mountain biking. I'm so glad for my fat tires as it really makes it enjoyable. My adjusted route has taken me into El Salvador, which is where I am now. I crossed at a very remote checkpoint where the border guys were all surprised to see me. They are all really friendly and interested, the cops and the military folks as well. It's crazy how often I'm warned about the dangers down the road. They all claim "Aqui es tranquilo," but watch out for the thugs, murderers and thieves down the road who are almost certain to rob you, beat you, kill you, and then rape you. Of course, when I arrive "down the road," the people are as mellow and kind as they were in the last place, where I received my warning....... I've come to the conclusion, based on my experiences on this trip, that we humans are basically good. If approached with good intentions, they will respond in kind. Of course, I don't seek out the gnarliest ghettos to test my theory........ So I'm looking at yet another spectacular sunset, this one with a perfect volcano to the south....

Dia 88 Gotera - San Lorenzo 111 kms

Got a good jump start this AM, as I thought I had a long haul to get across before re-entering Honduras. You see, maps of El Salvador are also impossible to locate. You ask how far, and they immediately look confused, look around for someone else who might have a clue, and then they make up an answer.... It's a Latin thing.... Otherwise intellegent people are clueless about distances. The best answer you can get is in hours of travel by bus...... As it turned out, in spite of a hot, dry headwind, I made it to the crossing before lunch. Oh yeah, had a nice lesson this AM after leaving Gotera. I noticed a brickyard where they were manufacturing "Tejas." We call them terra cotta tiles. I stopped to look over the fence as I'm interested in the process. I was instantly invited in and was given the full tour. From the mud mixed with grass, to the form, to the shaper, the drying times, the kiln..... I'm psyched.... Such an elegant roofing material.

I've taken to always carrying a bag of hard candy with me so I can hook up the kids who shout "Gringo!" at me. Stopped today at probably the poorest looking structure I've seen this entire trip. An actual cardboard shack with about a dozen naked or mostly naked, barefoot, dirty kids running around like crazy 'cause the gringo actually stopped!!! The mothers came out to see what all the fuss was about, each carrying another baby or two on their hips. I asked them to give me back the wrappers so I could throw them away properly.....

Limped into San Lorenzo, hot and beat from the dry wind and the mounting kms.......

Dia 89 San Lorenzo - El Banquito 73kms

Another early start to try and beat the heat. It still got me as by mid morning, I was glistening in sweat. San Lorenzo was on the coast, but I didn't even make the effort to go to the water as my mission now is focused on food and sleep. The roads in Honduras have been the best so far, with decent width and normally a shoulder. Light traffic as well. Got waved over at a police checkpoint this AM and had a fun encounter with about 6 cops. They were all laughing as I rode up and they wound up being hilarious. They just wanted to hear the story..... After I passed Choluteca, as I'd been warned, the climb began. I'm so glad to be back up high as the heat destroys me. The climb itself was nice as the views just kept expanding and the temperature dropped. Stopped early when I was going by a hotel and the owner came out and offered me a room for free. Turns out, he was very drunk and wound up charging me $10. Which made it the most expensive lodging since Mexico..... Before arrival, I rode with a father and son for a few kms. Met the hotel cook, Maria who is also a journalist. I was able to get a good idea about the political climate in Honduras, which is split, like everwhere. The current Prez is a leftist who just entertained Hugo Chavez for the past few days, signing accords regarding fuel supplies, etc. Most of Latin America is turning Left...

Another amazing viewpoint behind the hotel, overlooking the Bay of Fonseca and back into El Salvador. 3 volcanoes are in sight as I again watch the sun descend behind the horizon, painting the clouds along the way....

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:36:00 +0000

Dia 78 Morazan - Zacapa 89kms

Had more good conversation with Juan this AM. He warned me about the deteriorating situation in Guatemala City with it's gangs and heavy, violent crime. Now, I'm certain not to pass through there! He confirmed my feelings about the difficulties faced by immigrants to the US. He lived through 11 years of misstreatment and low pay. And he had papers! He's happy to stay in Guatemala now as he's got 3 great kids and a foxy wife. His first wife died a couple of years ago.

Have I even hinted yet that this is a very hard bike ride? Or that it is not pure pleasure? Get the message? Today's 89 mostly flat, hot kms were not fun. The road was fine, good shoulder. The views quite scenic. Only one hard climb. So what do I have to complain about? I'm now so physically fried that my normally positive outlook is compromised. In fact, today, I'd call it a poutlook! The wind had a lot to do with my sufferage today. It started as a light wind and seemed to increase in intensity as the day wore on. Or was it just that my state of exhaustion was growing? Also, I flatted. Probably, my own personal demons were busy as well. Lot's of questions today, huh? I hope a good night's sleep provides me with some answers....

Dia 79 Zacapa - Copan 85kms

I expected to have bad legs again today, but to my surprise, I feel strong. After leaving Zacapa, I climbed for a while, then dropped into Chiquimula. Had an early lunch and carried on to the junction that would head my into Honduras. This is where the real climb began. Another of the baby chainring variety. Climbed above the desert into much cooler and prettier terrain as I neared the border. Passed through some gorgeous valleys and within 2k of the border crossing, I flatted. As I was fixing it, a pretty schoolteacher named Nora came walking along and my attention was adjusted in her direction. A taxi came along and swooped her up as a local indigenous man and another taxi driver came by to "help" me with my repair. They were so busy asking the questions and talking to each other that I couldn't hear the leak and thusly guessed that I had repaired my flat. I remounted and pushed on toward the border, only to discover that my tire was flat again. Now, I was pissed, as it was getting late. This time, I fixed it properly without help and sprinted toward the border. Crossed easily as usual and climbed for about 10k to get to Copan Ruins. It seems such an injustice to me that those of us who hold US passpòrts can cross these borders so easily, while Central Americans have a hard time moving between countries..... Met a couple of tourists in Copan ruins and had a few drinks with them. Icy from Germany and Barbara from California.

Dia 80 Copan Ruinas

After breakfast, went to the ruins to be wowed once again. This is perhaps not the grandest site I've seen, but certainly the most artistic. The rock carving here is off the charts. It sports steles as large as Bonampak with much more detailed inscription. Also, there's the hieroglythic staircase that tell's the story of this city through it's 400 year heyday. Tunnels reveal earlier structures that were covered by succeeding rulers. Facinating stuff! Just as the other great Mayan cities of the era, it declined and was abandoned by the early 800's. Theories suggest a peasant uprising to remove the minority ruling elite who enforced strict and meager conditions on the poor. Just like the Romans. Will the US empire be the next to fall?

Dia 81 Copan Ruinas - Santa Rosa 106 kms

Had no luck finding a map of Honduras and so I've drawn my own based on the one good map I saw on the wall at the internet cafe. I began today concerned about the vibe in Honduras as there were some sketchy people in the villiage. Also, the weather looked threatening and I didn't have a map.... My early fears were unfounded as once I climbed out of the valley, the clouds burned off and it turned out to be a great day of cycling on good roads devoid of traffic. The scenery was grand... I stopped for lunch in a place called La Florida and met an exceptional woman named Maria Pinto. As soon as I saw her walking across the street, she struck me as being someone special.. It turned out, she was the mother of the proprietor of the restaurant. 64 years old and she just glowed with beauty. Her smile never shrunk from ear to ear for the entire time it took for her daughter to prepare my lunch. We began talking and laughing about life. She had had 10 children and was now tired of relationships with men as she commented that it was no different than having another child to care for, another mouth to feed. Physically, she had the body of a 25 year old. Her daughter was probably 20 and out of shape.... Later in the day, I climbed a lot. Beautiful country and sparse traffic had changed my early uncertainties into comfortable confidence. I made it to Santa Rosa where I was surprised to find another beautiful, colonial city the likes of which I'd not seen since Oaxaca...

Dia 82 Santa Rosa - Gracias 50kms

I lingered in Santa Rosa this morning as I knew I'd take a short day today. Also, I was determined to find a map of Honduras as it makes me very uncomfortable to have to depend on the directions of the locals. Found one at the tourist office and when I asked the attendant to see it, she couldn't even find Santa Rosa!! I had to show here what part of Honduras we were in!! Shoved off to a continuation of the beauty I had seen yesterday. I'm so impressed with Honduras so far! The houses are neat and earthy. The predominant material being adobe, painted white with gray or brown trim. Very little of the gaudy colors so popular in other parts of Latin America. The tradition roofing material is ceramic, terra cotta tiles. Most yards have lush gardens of flowers and fruits.

My friend Fernando was so right on when he told me about how awesome Honduras would be for cycling. And the food has been great as well. Fresh everything, tons of fruits and veggies available on the roadside. Really good diet here and the people look healthy... The cold cane juice I had yesterday was delicious, and today's melon juice too! OK, so I'm only 2 days into Honduras, but, wow! The riding has been fantastic with big climbs and ripping descents on well paved roads, largely empty of traffic. The flat part of Honduras, I haven't seen yet..... The mountains are big and usually shrouded in clouds. Flowers, trees, clear rivers..... I could live here happily....Why have I not heard more about Honduras?

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 22 Jan 2008 02:26:00 +0000

Dia 77 Coban - Morazan 110kms

Slept long and hard after yesterday's effort. Was in no hurry to get out and suffer today so I had a leisurely breakfast and cruised around 9:30. I dreaded another day of climbing like yesterday and was pleased to discover that the terrain was mellower. I never even had to use my little ring today, although I did have to climb a lot. Beautiful countryside continued as I passed through a couple of protected cloud forest areas. Finally, a day without rain! The jungle continued wet and green 'til I dropped over the top of the last climb today at La Cumbre. From there, it became dry almost within a matter of kms. By the time I had descended 25 kms, I was in the desert again! The views were phenomenal from the top and the whole way down the descent, where I stopped at a little tienda with a very limited selection. They did have cold beer though, so I was thrilled! Bought some sardines, a can of beans, and some eggs for breakfast and asked where I could camp. Juan, the owner, said, sure you can sleep in the workshop. We started talking and finished minutes ago after hours of conversation. He had lived and worked in the states for 11 years. We talked about a lot of interesting subjects, the highlight or lowlight of which was his stories of the horrors of guatemala´s 36 year war. He was a boy when the soldiers came through this area and went on a grusome killing campaign. His family was spared, but they could hear the screams of their neighbors being tortured and murdered. Now, he doesn't even want to imagine another war.....

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 22 Jan 2008 01:57:00 +0000

Dia 76 Chisec - Coban 80 kms?

Yesterday's mtns were just the beginning. Today, I really climbed!! Awesome road, light traffic, but holy crap! The climbs were the steepest I've encountered in my 2+ months on the road. At times, I struggled to turn over my 20 - 34 low gear. Must have reached 30 - 40 false summits today. The locals seem a little better off here in the mountains and they behave differently too. Much less "Gringo!" today. Yesterday's flats were big agribiz operations, while here, I see more family subsistance farming. Lots of corn and beans, of course, and finally, I climbed enough to reach the coffee plantations. By PM, the clouds built and I finished in a light rain. It's now rained on me at least a little, every day since entering Guatemala...... Just as Chisec had a strange vibe, Coban as well just didn't feel right. There seems to be an uncomfortable blend of Spanish, modern, and Mayan indigenous culture here.

I did have 2 nice interactions today. The first was with a young indian named Henry. He came riding up beside me as I passed through a little villiage. He was riding a 20" single speed bike with squeeky chain. He seemed to have no problem keeping up with me but then, he wasn't hauling 50+ kilos either. Anyway, he spoke almost no spanish, but we managed to communicate. He told me he was going a few kms down the road. As it turns out, we rode more or less together for at least 20 kms. I'd drop him on the descents and he'd catch me and drop me on the climbs. One time, the climb was so steep, he actually caught me as I rode in my 20 -34 and he was walking! We rode the last 5 k together to his villige, where I bought him lunch. This kid could be a champion if he had some support.... Later, I needed some liquids and stopped at a little tienda. The traditionally dressed woman there spoke excellent Spanish and wanted to talk. I was gassed and didn't mind the break. She wound up being a very educated Mayan who had a beautiful outlook. She tryed to teach me how to say hello in Q'eqchi' but it was impossible for me so I'll just have to be content with a ring of my bell and a wave.

It was obvious as I came into Coban, that I wasn't in the country anymore as I began to see fewer traditionally clothed women. I also say 2 gay dudes and another guy in a poorly wrapped loincloth that displayed his manhood for all the world to see......

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 22 Jan 2008 00:42:00 +0000

Dia 73 Tikal

Slept great at the Hostal los amigos last night in Flores. While waiting for the bus to Tikal, I met Seth, a law student studying in DC. Another great friend made! We cruised Tikal together, talking the whole day. He's a dedicated cyclist who hopes to do a journey like mine someday..... Tikal is impressive!! The pyramids are much taller than Palenque and the site is just amazing. Much hs been excavated, however, it seems there is much more that that the jungle has refused to give up yet... Saw monkeys, wild turkey, pizotes, a crazy red headed woodpecker, parrots, and tons of other exotic birds that I didn't recognize. I need to decide which route to take from here, which I'll work on tonight in Flores. The camera is dead!!

Dia 74 Flores - Sayaxche 64 kms?

Well, I'm fairly dryed out now and ready to push on. I backtracted past La Libertad and stopped in at the same comedor for lunch. Anna and the ladies there were surprised to see me again and were more talkative than ever. They all said they wanted to go with me and I invited them to go and get their bikes...

Shortly after lunch, I encountered 2 Swiss cyclists, touring on recumbants. They were headed to Flores, so I sent them to the Los Amigos, where I'd been told by one of the staff that I was the first cyclist to stay there. Yeah, I beat the Euros again! Not 10 kms later, another 2 touring cyclists came up the road. Jacques, a frenchman, and Dean, a rastafarian, came riding up and I sent them to the Los Amigos as well. Now they'll be inundated with cyclists!! It's amazing that in the months I'd been touring, I'd only seen 4 other tourists, now 4 more within an hour! Crossed the Rio Pasion on the ferry and decided to stay here in Sayaxche as it's threatening rain again and I'm tired of being wet. After the day off at Tikal, I feel strong and ready to rip off a bunch of Kms. I'm so content to have now seen some of the most impressive archeology in the Americas, I'm concentrating now on trying to straighten out my route and move on toward Costa Rica.

After checking into the Hotel Valle Verde, I asked one of the guys hanging around for a good place to eat. He sent me around the corner, where I wound up being dissapointed by the comparitively high price, small portion, and lack of flavor. Still hungry, I went looking for more. I encountered a street vendor, who told me they offered "churrascos." Not knowing what a churrasco is, I asked and was directed to a young man who spoke excellent English. He's Anderson, from Belize. He explained and we followed with a nice conversation while the cook prepared my churrasco. He went off to work as my food arrived. Twice as plentiful, twice as flavorful, and half the price! Then, I returned to the hotel, and who's working the night shift? Anderson. So we talked some more. Another cooincidence occured today when I was eating my meager, pricy meal. The very same family who had come into the restaurant and sat at the next table last night in Flores, came in and sat at the next table! This was amazing in that I was now in a non-tourist town, and blocks off the main drag......

Dia 75 Sayaxche - Chisec 121 kms

Said goodbye to Anderson this AM as I was up early enough to see him off as he ended his shift at 6:30. A light mist was falling, so I covered my bags and braced myself for another wet day. Had to wait around for a restaurant to open as I wouldn't think of heading out without a full tank to start the day. Guess I don't get very good gas mileage as I have to eat a lot to keep my motor pumpin'! The mist stopped and the wind was light, so I clicked off a bunch of kms quickly. I almost became irritated today at the constant shouts of "Gringo! Gringo!" Anyone under the age of 12, always from a safe distance, would shout "Gringo!" which would alert the rest of the youngsters in the neighborhood, who would then chime in. Then, they'd follow with a barrage of commentary in their native Q'eqchi. Sometimes they'd throw in a word or 2 of English, usually "goodbye." I took this to mean I'd better leave....I don't think they meant to be derogatory, but It's disturbing to be pigeon-holed purely on appearance. Very poor people here in this part of Guatemala. The houses are made of traditional materials like wood and palm fronds. No electricity or running water here. Every stream is full of women and children washing clothes and bathing. Gender roles are evident here as the men dress in western atire, carry machetes and work in the fields. The women dress in long skirts and shawls. Many of the women and children are barefoot. Every little pueblito has a baptist or evangelical church that appears locked and unkept. I guess the missionaries came, build, and then leave..... No monster catholic churches as an obvious double standard exists. The infrastructure enjoyed in "white boy" Guatemala is missing here. And don't dare speak up ar they'll send in the army again.... I got through this flat part and entered a beautiful mountainous area this PM. Super abrupt, jungle covered cliffy mountains. Still totally indigenous. They hack down the jungle as much as they can to plant corn and beans to feed their babies. It's easy to be an armchair environmentalist and cry foul, but if you were to witness the conditions these folks are living in, You'd do the same.... Another cheap room tonight as the jungle here is a bit daunting. Totally wet, mud, snakes and I kept seeing monster tarantulas crossing the road today ........

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 16 Jan 2008 00:07:00 +0000

Dia 70 Bonampak - Bethel not many kms

Last night, met a couple of German girls, Iris and Doris. We talked for awhile and I crashed early. I'd set up my tent without the rainfly, as there was not a cloud in sight before sunset. Of course, It started raining,,,,,,,HARD, in the middle of the night. So I jumped up and dragged my tent, then the noodle up on the porch of a nearby building and managed to stay pretty dry. Rode to the border, where I must decide whether to go to Yaxchilan, which is an hour boatride downstream, then cross into Guatemala, or just cross.. Since I was nearly out of pesos, I decided to just cross into Guatemala, where I was gonna get my fill of spectacular Mayan ruins.

So I make it to Bethel, and there's no indication whatsoever as to where to locate immigration, where to change money, which road to take, nothing. So, looking confused, I was approached by a man on a moto who asked what I needed. He responded by offering to take me to immigration and house me for the night. I wind up meeting the whole family, his wife and 4 kids. He takes me to immigration and I get the feeling that he knows everyone around here. His name is Prospero and it turns out he's a long time community leader. He tells me about all of the international tourists he's met through the years and I'm sure he welcomes them all equally. He took off for awhile and left me to be entertained by his wife and kids. Yanira, his wife, runs down the biggest turkey in the bunch and immediately rings it's neck to begin the preparation for tomorrow's new years feast. She asks me to stay for a couple of days, but I'm psyched to get to Tikal.... The kids are super-cute and 2 of them sang for me while Mom plucked and cleaned the turkey and I lazed in the hammock.... Hope the fireworks aren't too crazy tonight so I can get some sleep. Tomorrow begins with 60 k of dirt road and it's 130 to Flores....

Dia 71 Bethel - La Libertad maybe 90 kms ?

Word for today: WET. Rained real hard 2 or 3 times and soaked me good. It's the jungle and I've been spared 'til now... Bad day for technology as my camera has died, or perhaps it's just sleeping.. Also, my cronometer quit as soon as it got soaked.. The camera is a bummer as I know I'm gonna want it further down the road. I'll try to fix it when I get to Flores, which is an island on Lake Peten Itza. Had more great conversation with Prospero this AM over breakfast. He told me a bunch about the horrors of the Guatemalan war and how they survived it in this part of the country. He told me about the conditions that caused it, and it's a similar story to Chiapas. The poor and indigenous asking for equal rights and the response was violent. The ruling elite controls the military, who carry out the bloody work of eliminating "the terrorists." Many innocents were slaughtered..... I make it to La Libertad, which might be a fitting place for me, this being the "Vuelta de Libertad." I arrive in time for the next downpour.... I change back to my street treads as I've passed the dirt for awhile. Have dinner in a typical Guatemalan "Comedor," where it's obvious I'm not in Mexico anymore as there's no hot sauce in sight....

Dia 72 La Libertad - Flores 30 kms?

Rode in the rain all the way to Flores after breakfast in the same comedor that I'd eaten in last night. Anna wanted to speak English, so I helped her with a few words. Another lady there told me about her husband who's been in Boston for 2 years... She's tired of waiting for his return.... It was pretty flat today. And speaking of flats, I had another today. I found a tiny piece of wire Imbedded in the casing that had likely caused my previous 2 or 3 as well. Big news of the day is that I've become a grandpa!!! Rafa's girlfriend, Caitlin gave birth to a baby boy!! Here comes the next generation!!!!! The prices in Flores are geared for tourist's, although I found a nice international hostal with a cheap bed in a dormitory. Met some Aussies at the hostal, and the place is full of foreigners, kind of nice to mix in with these folks... tired, going to bed.......

Dia 65–69

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:59:00 +0000

Dia 65 Delina Alta - Palenque 116 kms

It's no longer X-mas, but I'm still opening gifts! Today was another day of pure mountain beauty. I'm definately in the jungle now. It's not just green, it's flourescent! And the flowers and the birds, and the Aguas Azules waterfall, where I stopped for a swim in the turquoise waters, made today as magical as any so far! I'm feeling stronger, too. Not certain if it was that day off in San Cristobal, the rich, clean air, the altitude or the inspirational scenery. Probably a combination of factors. Whatever the reason, I'm in my best cycling form of the entire trip. Made the city of Palenque and will visit the ruins tomorrow. I'm thinking I'll stay for a few days as I've found yet another comfortable and cheap hostal, 50 pesos a night. At dinner, I met 2 nice ladies from DF, Guadalupe and Tere. We had a great time talking about all kinds of interesting subjects and laughing a lot. I'm so thrilled to be converstional in Spanish as I can now engage people in some depth...

Dia 66 Palenque

OK, if I wasn't already enamored with Chiapas, I am now!! The ruins at Palenque are my new favorite. Words or pictures cannot capture the beauty. You can feel the antiquity. This place, for a time, must have been as close to paradise as this planet has to offer. At least for the ruling elite.... The setting is exceptional with mountainous rain forest backdrop showering magnificent waterfalls through the site. Crystal clear pools of cool water are never far from any of the structures, which are the most beautiful examples of ancient arquitecture I've seen yet on this trip. Not only the structures themselves, but the careful, tasteful layout. I'll look forward to studying the history of this place as well as the others that I've visited. Facinating stuff!! Met another lady from DF here named Aurea Chavez. Intellegent, spiritual and full of internal beauty!

Dia 67 Palenque

I'm staying another night here, just because I want to. So there!! Re-connected with Barry, one of the Brits I'd met in San Cristobal. Saw him at the ruins yesterday.....

Dia 68 Palenque - Nuevo Guererro 104 kms

Yesterday and last night, I slept a lot and deeply. Physically, I feel ready to advance on towards Bonampak and into Guatemala. Another day of esquisite cycling through jungly Chiapas. I climbed out of Palenque and in a full sweat, stopped at a beautiful waterfall named Webij-hi. It was a small tribal park and no one was there except me! I swam in the cool water below the falls before cruising on. Made it to this small pueblito and noticed a slow leak. I'd broken a spoke as well earlier in the day, so I asked if I could camp here. The people speak a different dialect here and only one person, Hilda spoke spanish. So she translated for all the locals, who showed up to check out "the gringo." I broke out my tent and stove and drew quite a crowd. Hilda translated and we all laughed a lot.

Dia 69 Nuevo Guererro - Bonampak 54 kms

Now I have more "amigos de paso." Hilda, her husband Esteban are added to a growing list of kind friends who have helped me along the way. The interactions I had with them and the neighborhood children were priceless. The innocence, the interest, they asked me for everything. They wanted my tent, my gloves, my helmet, saying that I could buy new ones in the next tienda! We negociated and finally settled for friendship and chiclets. Showered outside like a local and asked for the bathroom. They waved out back and I found it in the woods. No outhouse, no hole in the ground, just piles of poop with used, discarded toilet paper to indicate the location of "the bathroom."

On towards Bonampak, another Mayan site. More remote than Palenque, the traffic is nil. Just pure jungle splendor with an occasional cornfield created by the common practice of clear cutting. Tons of clear water running everywhere. Got to a camp place and stashed my bags to ride the 9 kms of dirt into Bonampak. Much smaller site, but had amazing colored murals in one building and huge "steles," which are thin carved stone slabs that stand guard around the site.
Tomorrow, I'll leave Mexico behind and move on to Guatemala...

Dia 63–64

Bicycle Bob — Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:32:00 +0000

Dia 63 full moon San Cristobal de las Casas

Another memorable day! Nice interactions all day with the locals, then I met a bunch of Brits, in the bar, of course... San Cristobal is another charming colonial city with an amazingly well preserved historic district. Narrow, cobbled streets and awesome churches and public buildings. Am I being redundant? Been somewhat undecided about my route plan from here, but It's now clear that instead of bussing to Palenque, I'm gonna just ride there, then on into northern Guatemala to visit Tikal. Today, I ate a lot, fixed my flat caused by a glass shard. Repaired my pannier hook, showered, shaved, all the normal stuff.... Had a nice dinner downtown, watched the moon popping in and out of the clouds above the cathedral and then on to the "Cuban Bar," where I met the Brits. Before bed, still hungry, I went to the plaza near the Tierra Madre and had a burger. Met Pablo, a busdriver from DF. (Mexico City) We talked about a lot of stuff and I ranted to him about how the busdrivers are the most dangerous of all for me. He promised to be kind to cyclists from now on......

Dia 64 San Cristobal - Delina Alta 111 kms Christmas Day

Woke up to open my present,,,,,, A New Day!!!!! Just what I wanted!! Really liked the Posada Ballam Chilam, very old and comfy. 80 pesos. Cruised to the center for breakfast, chowed and sailed. The ride was awesome right from the start as San Cristobal is high in the mountains and it being X-mas, the roads were deserted. The air here is so good you can drink it. Mostly indigenous areas I passed today, very campesino. Chiapas is already my favorite state in Mexico. I'm in no hurry to leave as there's much more to see here. The day off really helped my energy as I felt strong all day. Big climbs and ripping descents. Along the way today, I stopped and bought an amber pendant as the chain around my neck has been without a mojo since the original dissappeared mysteriously some weeks ago.... Stocked up in Ocosingo, then pushed on to my current camp in a coffee plantation. It's really turning to jungle here. The insect's are going off and the moons coming over the ridge. Good Night!

Day 62

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 02:36:00 +0000

Dia 62: La Granadilla - San Cristobal de las Casas, 35 kms

The man from the tienda last night with all the rowdy drunks happened to be walking down the road when I came out of the cornfield. He was surprised and full of questions. He was amazed that no one saw me there. Got the feeling I was being interrogated. Didn't feel welcome.. the stinkin' stove failed me again this AM, so I had to continue yesterday's climb without a real breakfast or coffee! Not a happy camper! Continued climbing another 20 k. For the first 2 hours in the saddle, my top speed was 10 k-hr. Including yesterday, from the Rio Grijalva at Chiapa de Corzo, I'd climbed pretty much continously for 50k! Awesome views and little traffic, but considering my current state of general exhaustion, and no coffee, I found it hard to enjoy. The pueblitos I passed through were very indigenous, they didn't even speak Spanish, so I really felt isolated. I claim it as a valuable experience though, as I now know how it feels to be a minority... Very little comercialism, no restaurants and hardly any tiendas, so I was pretty much limited to enriched wheat and corn products laced with sugar. Not my prefered fuel, but ya do what ya gotta. Limped into San Cristobal and found a hotel. After happily accepting full price payment of 160 pesos, the proprietor informed me there was no water 'till tomorrow! I convinced her of my need for a shower and she switched me to another room, but there was only cold water and San Cristobal's at 2,200 meters, it's downright cool.. Went to look for a laundry, but they were all closed as it's Sunday, so I did them by hand with limited water. Then the challenge of drying as this shitty hotel had nowhere to hang clothes in the sun. I wound up going across the street to the plaza in front of yet another colonial church and hanging them on the fence while I sat and wrote. At least, it's clean laundry!

Haven't really talked much about the noodle, have I? Here's my chance while my clothes dry. The noodle's actually a Surly, Karate monkey, which is a 29er mountain bike by design. I thought it would be the perfect bike for this trip. It's close with it's major flaw not becoming evident 'til I loaded it up for a test run 3 days before departing. It was shockingly apparent in an instant that this frame was very flexible torsionally. Too late to change my mind at this point, started thinking about a way to brace it. The first 4-5 days with Hairball, we brainstormed a design to marry the head tube to the seat tube. When I got to Safford; AZ, I decided to seek out the materials to build the brace. Found a bike shop and convinced the owner to loan me the tools I'd need to fix my brace. Bought a piece of 3-8ths plywood and some bolts from the hardware store. The saw the guy lent me was dull and I sweated like a pig in the AZ sun to make my cuts. Then I borrowed his drill to make bolt holes. The result being, "The El Dente Brace!" It looks like shit, but it actually works to stabilize the noodle. It kind of turned the top tube into an I-beam. Other than the whippy top tube, the bike works really well. My idea of 2 sets of tires works well and really opens up more possibilities route-wise. The Sram grip shifters and XO derailleurs have worked flawlessly as well as the Avid mechanical brakes. My Wide gearing of 20-36-48 rings with an 11-34 gearset has enabled me to clean every climb. (LIE) I'm super impressed with the Conti Top Contact tires. They are bomber! Even though I've had some flats, I consider them few as I've ridden through a lot of shit. The H-bars rock! So many hand positions to choose from!! I'm not so sure anymore about the brooks saddle, although after almost 5,000 kms, any saddle will work you. What I've noticed about the Brooks is that it has one, super sweet spot. And nothing else.... the racks work great and my Arkel bags are almost flawless. I have managed to shake one off on two occasions as Mexico's full of speed bumps (topes.) Some are invisible and in the middle of nowhere. Vendors even build their own to get the drivers to slow down and look at their offerings. Made the scene in San Cristobal at a cool bar called the Madre Tierra where Luis hooked me up!

Days 54-61

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 02:30:00 +0000

Dia 54: Mitla - Rio Quiechapa, 81 kms

Dreamt heavily again last night, which I've done a lot this trip, especially when camped out. My friend Rip was in the dream and I woke up thinking about him..... Fixed my broken spoke in the shade of a huge boulder that I was camped behind. I dropped into town after a leisurely breakfast. The ruins in Mitla are right in the middle of town and as was customary, a colonial church was built on top of what was probably the prize structure of the native tribe. They were descendants of the people of Monte Alban, so the architecture was a little newer. From 600 to 1500. Very likely there were battles here as the site was inhabited up to the time of the conquest. What has survived here in Mitla is a superb example of artistic masonry. What struck me about these ruins are the patterned facades, all different, yet related. All the sites I've visited are unique in some way or other.

Dropped into the farmer's market in the center of town. What a colorful display of people and produce! I have few, if any pix of the native peoples I've encountered as I respect their aversion to getting there picture taken.... Bought some dried fish, fruits and had lunch, all for less than 50 pesos. I finally got out of town and headed back down "Mezcal Valley." Think I'll take a little toke off my flask,,,, AH! So good! Wash it down with a little lime and yeah!!! I feel good! I'm at camp cooking dinner, which is usually my time to write.... Found my first good coffee in ages, I must be approaching the coffee growing region. Tonight, I'm cooking on my campfire, cecina, which is thin sliced beef, seasoned and ready for the grill. Really tasty! Next on the menu, baked potato smothered in butter, garlic and onions. This is living! Already ate my tree-ripened avocado, wow! All the food I'm eating and the Mezcal I'm drinking, is produced locally. I like that! It's a natural rythem with bike travel as it's convenient to buy my food daily, in the last pueblo of the day. So, whatever fruits and foods are available are what's for dinner. It's helping me to feel generally strong and healthy. I've not felt sick at all this whole trip, a little constipated in Tlaxcala, probably because I was "drinking the water." I'm headed toward Tehauntepec, which is close to the coast. I may rest there for a day or 2....

Dia 55: Rio Quiechapa - Tequisistlan, 91 kms

Slept poorly last night as it was too warm for my sleeping bag and too cool for my light bag... Tossed and turned and woke up feeling shitty. Probably because I bragged yesterday about how good I feel. Maybe the mezcal's to blame! Had a dream with the Tomac's. Johnny was gonna enter a big jump contest on some top-secret bike called "the exterminator." Kathy was upset that Johnny would enter such a dangerous event...

Cooked breakfast while heavy clouds built and I thought I'd finally get wet. Hurredly ate and packed and hit the road with zero legs. Struggled all day with big passes and lots of wind. Think I'll quit asking questions of any kind regarding directions or road conditions. Reason? Very few people know the correct answers, but there always willing to guess. Yesterday, I asked a bus driver, figured a bus driver would know the road.... "How far to the next pueblo?" He replied, "It's close, 20kms,,, well maybe 40,,, just this heavy climb, and then it's all down hill." It wound up being close to 40k with 3 heavy climbs. Today, I started downhill and cruised 'til I hit El Camaron, which was followed by a windy , 15k climb into the pines. The wind was so gusty and strong, it would almost push me off the road at times. After cresting, I raced down the other side, hanging on to the noodle for dear life. Had lunch in a small pueblito and while buying supplies, a young man who spoke some English told me "It's all down hill from here." I was cursed and knew what was coming... 3 or 4 "heavy climbs later, I limped into the next pueblo and stopped for liquids. The attractive girl in the tienda looked intelligent, so I made the mistake of asking about the road. All she could tell me was 15 minutes in a car with lots of corners.... Over an hour of "heavy climb" later, I reached the last mountain top of my day and descended into Tequisistlan.... No rooms here, so I rode to the municipal building and met the cops. Guillermo was the captain and spoke a lot of English. He set me up with a shower, a place to sleep and then tried to set me up with Daisy, who has a nice body... I invited her to come by my dorm so I can teach her English. I'm waiting for her now...

Dia 56: Tequisistlan - Salina Cruz, 91 kms

Guillermo came by to say goodbye when he got off his shift at 6:30AM. Daisy never showed, or maybe I just fell asleep... Took the opportunity to bounce early and I did. Nothing open here, so I'm 15 k into my day writing this over breakfast. Broke another spoke yesterday, all brake side, rear pullers. I should have tightened them up after a few days, but never got around to it as I've been too busy making kms... Ripping wind today out of the north, which slipped in nicely behind me when I made the turn toward the beach. I took the toll road, which while checking my map.I noticed that not a single car passed in either direction. With a monster tailwind, I enjoyed 25kms of the smoothest, widest road, I've yet ridden in Mexico. With almost zero traffic! It's so silly, they put a road like this in a place where it's not needed while the heavily traveled routes are in dire need of fresh pavement and shoulders.....

And so you get a realistic impression of Mexico, allow me to rant on a subject I've not touched on yet. Garbage. I've finally lost my tolerance for the mountains of garbage that line Mexico's roadsides. It's absolutely shocking, the quantity of garbage I've ridden past on this trip. Without intending, I've managed to do a "garbage survey," and even have some ideas about how this mess could be cleaned up. Overwhelming #1 garbage item from north to south is the plastic beverage container, fully 20% of which contain urine. Plastic bags, disposable diapers, usually tossed in mass in a plastic bag which explodes it's stinky contents all over the roadside, to mix with the rest of the list. Plastic oil bottles, which do provide me with a free source of chain lube! Discarded clothing items, which I use to clean my chain. Dead animals with their smell of death. Car parts, rotting fruit, refrigerators, car tires, CD's, and human excrement with the used toilet paper blowing in the wind. Of course, the list is much longer, but I'll spare you... The causes are fairly obvious. Other than some cities and tourist areas, there is no garbage collection. So, for generations, people have learned to toss there garbage wherever it lands. Out of the window of the car as you head down the road.... Lack of education, many people in the small pueblos don't receive much of an education as they must work the fields.. Solutions, you ask? How about fairly electing a government that actually cares about the people and is willing to work for them and kick out the corrupt assholes. Kind of like what needs to happen in our country! Then, pressuring the beverage manufacturers to go back to returnable, glass containers with enough value to prevent them from winding up broken on the roadside. How about a plastic recycling program that would give plastic enough value to entice the locals who need work to go out and collect plastic. Perhaps by focusing on cleaning up the garbage, Mexico could create a new economy and encourage people to stay in Mexico...

OK, got a room here in Salina Cruz, which is kind of a grungy, seaport town. Spent part of the day hanging in my hammock under an old palapa at the beach. Very windy here! Heading south, along the coast road, the wind got even with me and I bonked trying to push through. Had to crawl to the first tienda I encountered, which was run by Carmen, a 26 year old, very overweight woman who looked much older... All she had was lukewarm soda, (which she claimed was cold) and cookies. I was so hungry, I downed 2 of everything on the menu while answering her nonstop questions. She'd never married, and perhaps never will, as she was not very appealing physically. Anyway, she was quite amazed by my adventure and I had to ease my way back into the wind....

Dia 57: Salina Cruz

Wanted to party last night, as the streets were full of people, x-mas shopping I suppose. A pretty girl even winked at me, but I was so blown from the effort to get here, all I could do was return to my room and crash hard... Got up and looked for another hotel, as this one was hurtin' for 177 pesos. Found a much nicer one for 100, so I've moved. Today, I'll rest, do the internet, work on the noodle,etc...

Dia 58: Salina Cruz - Niltepec, 102 kms

Here I am at tonight's camp, cooking dinner, drinking beer, just finished off my flask of Mezcal.... Today was one of the most challenging bike rides of my life!!!! Found out from the locals that the isthmus of Tehuantepec is famous for intense winds. I was getting the beginnings of it on my way into Salina Cruz, and today I really got as face full! I left Salina at dawn cause I thought maybe the wind would die down in the AM. Wrong! My first 20k were dead on into it, then I turned toward the east and it became a 3-4 headwind. I struggled to keep my speedometer above 10k-hour. At least the road had a wide shoulder, and I used all of it. What made this wind unlike any other I've experienced is that it was constantly changing intensity, always ripping, but sometimes sucking,,, yeah, that's it,,, it was sucking for sure!! Swirling, gusting, blasting, changing direction. All this meant that I couldn't hold my line as I was in a constant state of correction due to the ever changing wind load trying to push me south. And it did push me, off the road literally 20 times or more today. The noodle was flipping and flopping so hard, I must have looked like a drunken sailor from Salina Cruz!!! This went on for 60k. Along the way, I stopped for lunch and met Pedro and his family. He told me it's always windy here and I was lucky to be crossing here on a "mild day!" He claims the gusts have been clocked at 300k-hour here on a heavy day! Returned to a continuation of nearly impossible riding conditions. Actually had to stop to drink as the thought of taking a hand off the bars didn't enter my mind. Even standing to drink was a chore and the noodle blew over while I was holding on to it! It's a flat coastal plain here at the narrowest point between the Gulf and the Pacific. Even though flat, I often looked down to see I was going only 5 or 6 k-hr... By 1:00PM, my hands ached from the effort of holding on to the squirming noodle. Complicating the wind itself was the fact that every time a sizable vehicle would pass, it would cut the wind and pull me north, toward traffic, only to be smacked by the next pumping blast as they passed. I made it to a junction at "La Ventosa," which means, the Windy. The attendant at the tiendita was the cutest girl in the world, well, other than my daughter Linda, that is! She confirmed that it's always windy here and that I was crossing on a mild day. Both she, and Pedro told me about how semis are constantly blown off the road in this area. Pedro had also told me to expect another 40k of these conditions and he was right on. Finally, a Mexican who gave me accurate info! Once I cleared the coastal plain, the wind lessened and I decided to stock up early as I was "blown." I stopped at this nice, mellow pueblito and everyone was nice again. Back in Salina Cruz, I'd noted that almost everyone wore a frown and no one was interested enough to ask for the story. I think the wind had "blown" their minds!

Anyway, it took a ton of energy to clear that stretch.. Easily, one of my most difficult days on a bicycle, not just on this trip, but in my entire life!!

Dia 59: Niltepec - Rizo de Oro, 86 kms

Noticed immediately upon departure this AM that my right arm was sore. Guess it was all that effort of countering the strong force coming from my left.... The road went from 2-lane with shoulder to 2-lane without shoulder 3 or 4 times today for no apparent rhyme of reason. Very hot here as I'm inland a bit but still at sea level. Sweating profusely, I made it to the junction at Tapanatepec craving cold drinks. Satisfied and stocked with fruits, I began the inevitable climb into Chiapas. 8 or 9 k into the climb, I crossed a crystal clear brook, so I stopped to freshen up and noticed my front flat. Drug the noodle off the road and made my repair. Stripped and found a deep pool and got in. I could see the pacific, way off in the distance as I chilled. Climbed back on and ascended for almost another 20k! Crossed into Chiapas in cool, lush mountains, hoping for a tienda. 1st pueblito had what I needed and I stocked and sprinted toward camp. Only problem, both sides of the road were fenced and no open gates. Kept going 'til dark and settled for the first restaurant, albergue. Was going to camp and cook, but it was only 120 pesos, so I gave the folks my food and hired them to cook it for me in their restaurant. Another super family! Carlos and his wife Eliu and their 3 kids. We talked into the night about everything, and they cooked me breakfast in the AM. Then, they didn't want to accept payment for their services. I made them take 50 pesos, claiming that the extra weight of this bill would throw me over the limit....So far, Chiapas is really beautiful...

Dia 60: Rizo de Oro - Ocozocoautla, 100kms

Eliu cooked my breakfast while I prepared for yet another day in the saddle. The dogs begged while I selfishly feasted. Finally broke down and gave a couple tortillas to the one who begged the least.. Said our goodbyes, took some pix and I was off. Felt really lousy with a mild headache and no zip. Then I dropped to a hot, flat plain and the road deteriorated into the no shoulder type. Mild traffic at the beginning, but a steady headwind worked my psyche. After the junction to Arriaga, the traffic increased a lot and required me to bail off the roadway repeatedly to make room for the big dogs. Later, the traffic died down and I made it to tonight's cornfield campspot.

Dia 61: Ocozocoautla - La Granadilla, 84 kms

Francisco, the caretaker of the cornfield arrived and came over to check me out. He gave me his blessing and added that we're all equal in the eyes of god, Mexicans, Gringos, Negros... We talked for a while and parted as friends. Thought I'd only go as far as Tuxtla today. Got there early and figured I might as well push on to Chiapa de Corzo and look for a room. Once there, I found out that it's all uphill to San Cristobal de las Casas. So, I decided to ride to the first pueblit that had a room and spend the night there. Folks assured me that there were pueblitos all along the way ... NOT!!! Without sufficient food and water on board to camp, I was determined to make it to the 1st pueblo. About 25k into what turned out to be probably the hardest, longest climb yet, I encountered a broke down VW and asked the folks how far to the next pueblo. The man replied assuredly "6k," and the rest shook there heads in agreement. I figured, OK, 6k ain't bad, I can do that in my sleep! So 14, all uphill kms later, after the sun had already set, I get to the 1st tienda, only to discover that it was surrounded by drunk and drinking locals who started heckling me immediately. I tryed to be cordial and offered many "buenas tardes" while I slipped into the poorly stocked tienda. The unhelpful proprietor took my pesos for the limited foodstuffs I bought there. He couldn't tell me where to sleep, nothing, just stonefaced, and the guys outside wanted to talk to the gringo. In super bad english, they were all asking me to buy them beers, "Come on, Gringo, You're loaded with dollars!" They were speaking their dialect and could not understand the words, but I could feel the animosity building so I hurredly packed my supplies and said, "Gotta Go!" I sprinted off as they shouted after me and it was getting dark. I wanted to put some distance between me and this bunch, but just up around the corner, I made it to a convenient looking cornfield and dove in just as the nearly full moon popped over the ridge. The views were outstanding as I'd climbed for something like 40k since crossing the Rio Grijalva.

Day 53

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 02:28:00 +0000

Dia 53: Oaxaca City - Mitla, 78 kms
So last night, I went back out to the plaza and met Taylor and Rafael. 2 young actors-models that were very hip. They'd been ditched by their entourage as they'd gotten drunk and missed the bus. They were broke, so I bought them each a hot dog and a beer. Turns out, they were like 17 and interested in my story. We hung out, they called me "Don" which is a term of repect. I felt honored. Later, I was pub crawling, and wound up at a real local's bar. They were psyched to have a gringo enter thier world. The self-proclaimed local king of the drunken thugs, Alejandro, introduced himself in bad english and then blurted out "This is my fucking terretorio!" The resident waitress-prostitute, Astrid had to hear "the story." Jesus, another Guey sitting at the table, later offered me Astrid for 200 pesos, but Alejandro told me, "She's mine!" The place was full of local yokels, and me. I ditched before things got any weirder.....I got back to the hostal, where I was sharing a room with a Dude from Taiwan and a frenchman. I'd made my bed all careful like as they hand you the sheets when you enter. To my suprise and dismay, I got there in the middle of the night with a good buzz to find my bed occupied. I was a bit perturbed as this caused me to have to try a fix a bed in the dark after too many beers in Alejandro's "fucking teretorio."

Got out early and made the hard climb to Monte Alban. Broke a spoke in the process, my first. Most amazing site yet! Beautiful pyramids and full community layout. took like 50 pix of the masonry, etc. Descended back down through the city and to my luck, there was some kind of transportation strike and the bus driver's blocked all the roads entering the city, I slipped through to an empty rode on my way. Dropped into Oaxaca valley, which I call "Mezcal valley" as this is where they grow the maguey. there are roadside mezcal tasting stands everywhere. It smells sweet when they're brewing. Of course, I filled my flask...... Broke another spoke coming into Mitla, hope it's not an epidemic! Saw many small sites visable from the road on the ride today. Also, stopped in Tule to see the monster, ancient tree. Impressive. The folks in Mitla told me there's no where to camp around here, which I knew wasn't true as I could see open country above town. So I bought supplies and made a gnarly climb to find a spectacular camp with bright stars above. Lot's of shooting stars.....Met 2 touring cyclists today going in the opposite direction. Daniel started in Argentina and Madeleine in Guatemala.

Tomorrow, I'll visit the site at Mitla.

Day 50

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 02:23:00 +0000

Dia 50: Huajuapan de Leon - San Juan Teposcolula, 76 km
50 days into this trip! Feels like I ought to celebrate,,, but then, the entire trip is a celebration! Pedalling my way along makes it all so real. I've come so far, but not just in measurable distance, I've grown and gained knowledge through experience, which means so much more than when it comes second hand.... I'll never be the same old "Bicycle Bob" and I'm happy about it. Not that I was dissappointed in myself before, but that's all in my rear view mirror and I'm looking straight ahead now....

I've asked a bunch of people here about the options to Oaxaca City and they all reply,"Either the auto pista or the federal road." I've been on the Fed road since Cholula and it's gotten better as the traffic died down. they all say therre's little traffic on the Fed road, so I'm going that way. My trusted friends on this journey, the "noodle" and my guardian angel are doing fine and enjoying the ride. I'm feeling steady, but not snappy. But then, you try feeling snappy with 50+ kilos of bike and gear on board! Fixed my stove again, finicky little devil. It fires strong when it feels like it. See ya tomorrow!

Well, it's later today at camp. A real beauty! Oaxaca, so far, is gorgeous! Little traffic since Huajuapan, mostly climbing. I'm at a high spot tonight, "La Gente" tell me it get's cold here at night. With wind. It is cool, but they really don't know what cold is. Reminds me of a poem that me and my boyhood buddy, Roggi made up so many years ago.. It goes like this:

So you think you're cold, ey?
You know what cold be,,,,,, down,,,, high country,
Mexico,,, high country,
You know what cold be!

Guess you had to be there! Think I learned "what cold be" growing up back in New York.

Today, another awesome encounter. Angel, who I now count amongst my many good friends that I have here in Mexico found me going the wrong way! Guess I wasn't paying close attention and I made a wrong turn. Coincidentally, it was the turn I considered making as an option to arrive in Oaxaca city. A few kms into my error, a moto passed me and waved in approval. A few more kms later, the same moto was pulled over on the side of the road and the rider waved me over. He asked "the questions" and I reponded with "the story." He told me he was a cyclist and had always dreamed of traveling as I'm doing now. He asked my route and I told him, he responded, "You're going the wrong way!" He explained where I'd erred and offered to lead me back to the junction if I'd let him buy me a drink and talk for awhile. I accepted his kind offer and we returned to the previous pueblito for a couple of cold gatorades. He offered to lead me all the way back to the junction and he did. Once there, he said, "I'm gonna go make my delivery, and then bring my wife to meet you, she likes adventure also. We'll catch up to you in a couple of hours. What do you like to eat?" I climbed for most of the next 2 hours and began to think that Angel couldn't make it. Then, here he comes with his wife on the back of the moto! We stopped and the fed me and asked more questions. They wound up following me for another 20 km, protecting my backside..... I now have yet another lifetime invitation to come and stay as long as I wish....

Carried on to the next opportunity to stock up with dinner makins' and rode off to find camp as it's very sparsely populated here. Found another beautiful high spot with a wind break. Encountered a couple children on my way and they were full of wonder and questions. I asked them where to find the owner of the land and they said,"down there." I parked the noodle and went "down there" to ask for permission to camp. A beautiful woman was at the nearest house and said "Up there" is fine. Here I am, fed, a couple beers down the hatch. Think I'll sleep well "up here!"

Dia 51: San Juan Teposcolula - Telixtlahuaca, 106 kms
No, I'm not making up these place names! Failed to tell of yesterday's flat tire... Woke up at the hotel Mexico with a front flat. Dissassembled and found a monster thorn and proceeded to patch. When I attempted to extract the thing, it just broke off, leaving the head imbedded in my conti's casing. Re-tryed to grab it and pull it through, to no avail. Finally had to perform major surgery to remove it. After much poking and probing, the impacted "monster" popped out, resembling more a small tooth that a thorn....

Today was an awesome day of cycling!! the federal road had been replaced by an autopista some time ago which has left it vacant of traffic. Beautiful climbs all day long into the high country of Oaxaca. Awesome views, good pavement, one of my favorite roads so far! Passed through a small pueblito that had a huge church that was built in 1550. I could see it from many kms away as it resembled a cluster of grain elevators like you'd expect to see in Kansas. It's so out of place in this tiny pueblo. The caretaker told me that 500 years ago, the population was much larger, 'til an epidemic wiped them all out. They're currently renovating the place, I snuck inside for a look. Quite spectacular! Proceded to enjoy the empty road for the remainder of the day.

Dia 52: Telixtlahuaca - Oaxaca City, 42 kms
So what's today's story? Got up knowing I'd need to find a bank as I was down to 34 pesos. Not enough for breakfast, so I bought a cup of coffee (hot water, instant nescafe.) I asked the lady how much and she replied 5 pesos. Then her husband interupted and increased the price to 9 pesos. (He saw I was a gringo!) This left me with 25 pesos with 32 kms to Oaxaca City and the nearest bank. Stopped and bought some gas for my stove so I could cook some breakfast, 1 peso, down to 24.... Encountered a fruit salesman on the way toward the city and bought some of his stuff. He wanted 28 pesos, but we settled for 24, broke.... Made it into the city and stopped at the first auto teller to extract more "fun tickets," but the stupid machine wouldn't cough them out. Figured I'd pushed the wrong button and tryed again, same result... Now, I was worried that the machine had ripped me off, so I nervously seeked out another and successfully got some pesos this time. Went and bought a phone card and called the last bank to make sure that my account hadn't been charged, but after a half hour of waiting to talk to a real person, I was told they couldn't help me... Now, I was pissed. Called 1st National in Durango and was reassured that my account had not been charged. Whew! Relieved, I went about my way checking out the beautiful historic district of Oaxaca City. The people are very lean and healthy looking here. Plenty of fresh fruits and veggies. Gorgeous women!!! Found a hostal a few blocks from the Zocala, the famous plaza in the city center. Stashed the noodle and walked back to hang out, where I was asked for an interview by some university students who'd seen me with the bike earlier. We had a great talk, exchanged pix and then I interviewed them. they told me their greatest hero is Benito Juarez, former president of Mexico who hailed from Oaxaca. He's famous for the following beautiful phrase:

"Entre los individuos como entre las naciones, el respeto ajeno es la paz."

"Between individuals as between nations, respect for the rights of others brings peace."

Wouldn't it be nice if we could all live this way?

Days 46-49

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:23:00 +0000

Dia 46: Santa Ana to Chipilo, 73 kms
What makes me turn here, instead of there? Why do I keep making the right choices? Somehow, I usually feel led to the right campsite, the right restaurant, the right hotel.......My prominent memory from today is Ruben and Maria. They are another example of some guiding force which is showing me the way. I'll get to Ruben and Maria later. Let me back up a bit, this is gonna be another long one, brace yourselves! Awoke knowing I had to move on. Kept getting in deeper and deeper with the family Rodriguez. I love them all, Doña Bety, Gisela, Luis Angel, Marco, Tonia, Roberto, Leslie, etc, etc, etc. We all now have a relationship..... So, I left that all behind with hugs, gifts and a powerful benediction delivered by Chino. Some of the girls were crying. Once again, I expose myself to fate or chance or is this all just completely random? I am becoming increasingly convinced that it's not random. This is all unfolding as if I'd dreamed of it previously. Stopped by the bike shop on my way out of town as the owners seemed intellegent enough to send me the right way toward Cholula. Turns out, they didn't have a freakin' clue! I stopped and asked many more people along the way and actually had a consensus, sending me in exactly the wrong direction!! My personal compass warned me to get out the map and figure it out for myself, which I did..... I'm finding out that I can find the way just by reading the sun, and the terrain, and my trusty map book of Mexico. It's a sad reality that most Mexicans don't even know their own region, let alone anything beyond. I'm often asked, after telling them I started in Colorado, "How many hours did it take you?" So, I made my way to Cholula and I'd have to say I was dissapointed by what I found. Something like 365 churches, all of which were built on top of a pre-columbian sacred site. Turns out, as Ruben taught me later, that Cholula was the ceremonial center of an ancient empire. The largest pyramid in mesoamerica is located there. I saw it on my way into town, of course, with a massive cathedral on top. I wondered if this could be the pyramid, but brushed aside the idea as it more resembled a small mountain. So, I was finally directed back there to find that there was a substantial entry fee with no where to secure my bike. So, I skipped it and bolted out of Cholula toward my encounter with Ruben and Maria... Suffered through Dirt, auto-pista, and 2-lane with a shoulder that the locals use as another lane. Which means no room for cyclists. It was all well worth the effort as I kept pushing on, looking for a good campsite to view Popcatepetl, which I was very close to now. Passed many fine spots 'til I saw Ruben out in his yard, directing some employees to water certain plants. Something made me turn here. I asked Ruben if I could camp in the cornfield behind his place as it had a fantastic, unobstructed view of a smoking Popo. He said of course, and I replied that I'd just eaten, but I'd come back to his restaurant for a drink after fixing camp...

Somehow, I continue to find places and people who are teaching me things I need and want to know. I beleive this has been happening to me all of my life. It's so obvious on this trip that I can't deny it. So I returned for a beer at Ruben's restaurant to find it empty except for a few kitchen workers and Ruben and his wife, Maria. It's funny, because at camp, I was thinking about how comfortable I was, and tired and how nice to just lay down and go to sleep as I watched Popo. But something kept telling me to go to the restaurant. I thought, perhaps there's a hot chick working there..... So, I introduced myself to Ruben and Maria and they invited me to join them. We spent the next 2+ hours conversing about all the subjects which are of major interest to me now. Ruben is a super interesting, intellegent man who taught me a huge amount in a short time. His grasp of history was impressive and he was able to enlighten me about the hidden treasures of Cholula (which I missed) and tied it to the present social situation in Mexico. He'd been a hunter as a young man and had traveled all over Mexico. There's so much he told me that I could write a book. He told me of his cousin, who lives in the US. They had both travelled to the border together to sneak into the states in 1959. Something told him to stay in Mexico and he did. His cousin continued on and made a successful life for himself in Chicago. Now, claims Ruben, his cousin is still working to pay his bills, while Ruben's been retired for years. His point being that Mexico is a great place, if you work hard, you can make a good life for yourself there. This is where he tied history to the current immigration situation. He claims that most illegal immigrants are looking for the easy way, when they could make it in Mexico if they worked for it. I'll keep the rest of my notes on Ruben to myself as I want to move on.....

Dia 47: Chipio to Tehuitzingo, 98 kms
The days are blending together now. Went to eat at Ruben's restaurant and was served the best cappucino I've had yet in Mexico. In fact, it's the only cap I've had in Mexico as the only other coffee I've found is instant. My breakfast was also excellent and I later found out that Ruben is a nationally renowned chef, perhaps internationally renowned. There were awards and fotos all over in a corner of the place. He joined me at my table and continued to pour wisdoms all over me. He insisted that I try his famous italian cake, which of course was delicious. Then, he talked about Popo. His dad told him of the big explosion in the 1930's, but the world didn't pay attention because WW2 was starting. Then, it went to sleep for the next 50 years 'til 1994, when it started smoking again. Ruben claims he can feel the tremors when it belches and has time to hurry outside in time to hear the boom and see the smoke.

Had another philosophical-religious conversation as I ate. Went to pay my bill, and he charged me half price... Lot's of downhill to start today's ride. It turned back to desert and got warm. Looks a lot like Sonora again. I'm on a 2-lane, but back in the country again with little traffic. It's mountainous and beautiful. Got dinner fixin's and made for camp. I can still see Popo smokin' off to the north. While cooking dinner, a father and son came to my campfire to check me out. I was a long way off the road, but my fire was visable from their house. They owned the land and were worried about it burning up. I greeted them and asked permission to camp on their land. I told them the "Story" which helps to ease their minds. They gave me their blessing....

Dia 48: Tehuitzingo to Chila de las Flores, 81 kms
Rose early today, there were still stars in the sky. Wanted to get a jump on the day. Cooked, ate, changed back to my skinny tires, stretched and cruised. Hilly, scenic desert. Hot, but not unbearably so. Had a difficult time finding a rythem as I got involved in numerous conversations at every tienda I stopped at. At lunch, the lady told me, "One little climb and then all down hill." LIER!!!!!! I climbed mostly for the next 40 kms! Never really did descend. Slow going with my heavy noodle, even with a mild tailwind. Thought I was going to make Huajuapan with ease, but finally had to give up on the idea at Chila. Bought dinner supplies, beer, and breakfast stuff at a small tienda where I met the ladies who worked there. One was rather cute and I almost had her convinced to come camp with me. Most people ask me if I'm afraid to camp away from a town. They were trying to convince me to camp next to the tienda, but I feel so much better out in the wild. The riding today was really sweet, even though it was mostly uphill. Little traffic and sweet, curvy terrain. Began the day with a view of Popo and ended with a view of Orizaba, snowcapped and towering above the surrounding landscape.

Dia 49: Chila de las Flores to Huajuapan de Leon, 23 kms
Got up determined to fix my mal functioning stove with an hour invested and no success. So, had to start a fire before I could cook. Ate, repacked and hit it, still wondering where the long descent was that the LIER had told me about yesterday. 4 climbs later, I finally got my downhill and headed straight for the 100 peso hotel without asking anyone. I need to re-stock, rest, wash clothes, shower, etc. I'll stay here tonight and try to decide which way to go on to Oaxaca City and Monte Alban. It's either stick with the federal road, which is nice and more direct, or the backroads, which I'm sure is beautiful, but more severe. The fireworks are going off in every pueblo lately for the build up to the virgen Guadalupe's birthday. References to god are a constant in Mexico, "Primero Dios, Adios, May god accompany you," are a few examples. I respond in kind, keeping my own beliefs in my heart... I've appreciated the beautiful colonial archetecture throughout Mexico, usually centered around the principal cathedral. However, I'm finding that I prefer to visit the pre-columbian sites as their simple immensity and long history attest to the quality of a conquered culture. Honestly, I'm getting tired of visiting examples of colonial conquest...

Days 40-45

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:18:00 +0000

Dia 40: Teotihaucan to Atan, 61 kms
My km count has dropped... and I don´t care!! It´s not about time or distance anymore. I´m just choosing my route by studying the map and conferring with "la Gente." It´s working so well! I´ve met some fantastic people, seen some awesome sites and even done a little bikin' in my spare time! I meet the people often by asking directions. "Which way to Atan?"

Today, some dudes (Gueyes) in Tepeapulco asked me if I knew about the pyramid near there. Of course, I didn´t, so they told me where it was. One guy said, it´s 15 km that way, the other responded, "¡Este guey esta llena de mierda!) That guy´s full of shit, it´s only 4-5 km. Since I´m resigned to a slower pace, I thought, Why not? It was out of my way, but I don´t care anymore, remember? On the way, I passed a really well kept property with a tree nursery near the road. I waved at the man as I passed, thinking, I´ll bet that´s an interesting person.....The next turn was to the pyramid at Xihuingo, which wound up being a few more kms on a gnarly dirt road. Well worth the shred, as the Pyramid was remote and beautiful, surrounded by mountains. It dates back to the 2nd century and has the remnants of an ancient roadway leading directly to Teotihacan. Portions of the original red stucco have survived the centuries. I think it´s my favorite site so far, as I had it all to myself and was able to feel the history.... On my way back by the nursery, I noticed the man I´d waved to earlier. He was busy potting a plant, so I rang my bell and he instantly waved me over. He invited me in for fruit and water and I accepted, as I just had a feeling that this guy was cool. He was interested in my trip and we had a fantastic converstion about everything while I chomped some of his homegrown fruit and drank his water from a clay pot. We wound up spending a couple of hours talking while he showed me around his property. He rescues trees and plants and nurtures them back to health. He´s filled his yard with an assortment of flowers, fruits and native plant species and is a self-taught expert on local flora. Not a spec of garbage either on his property or along the roadway in front. He also knew volumes about the pyramid culture. Turns out, we´re the same age and had lots in common. I now have another great friend, who invited me to stay as long as I like. He gave me a lifetime invitation to return to "mi casa." I really hope to. Made it to Apan, another old colonial city.

Dia 41: Atan to Santa Ana de Chiautempan, 66 kms
Stayed in a hotel last night and met the proprietor, a woman from Spain who invited to take me into town for dinner. We returned to the hotel and drank some tequila. She made me promise I´d go inside the old church tomorrow on my way out of town. So, I arrived at the church to be greeted by a group of folks cooking all kinds of super good food. Mass was in session, so I was their only customer for awhile. They got my well-practiced story, as they offered coffee, arroz con leche, and everything else that they so proudly had prepared for the soon to arrive congregation. I went inside to keep my promise and WOW! The church dates to 1607 and is elabarately decorated with solid gold. The courtyard filled with folks as mass ended and I paid up and boogied on toward Tlazcala... Yesterday, on my descent toward Apan, I caught a smoggy glimpse on 2 of Mexico´s largest volcanoes. Today, with the wind out of the east, the view was clear, and what a view!! I rode to a point where all 4 of the large volcanoes were in sight. Popocatepetl and Iztaccoihuatl to the west and Orizaba and Malinche to the east. 3 of 4 were snowcapped with Popo smoking and belching. It was so beautiful, I finally just stopped, hung my hammock, and took it all in....I´m writing this from my hammock. After a couple of hours of good rest, I cruised on into Tlaxcala to find Rodrigo´s and Guadalupe´s families. Really good vibe here, on the way in, a nice couple in a VW stopped me to talk. Lot´s less garbage. They invited me to stay with them, if I could´t locate the families. Rodrigo´s daughter-in-law answered when I called and said yes, they were expecting me and had plenty of room for me as long as I liked. As I´m really stinkin´tired, I´m gonna stay for a few days... I´ve been welcomed, fed, and given my own room here in Rodrigo´s house. I tryed to tell them that I can sleep on the roof in my sleeping bag, but they insisted on treating me like a king. The women of the family all want to know if their husbands have gringa girlfriends! I´ve convinced them that all their husbands do is work, I´m not even sure if they ever sleep, let alone chase gringas! Nice to make the connection between Durango´s immigrant population and their homes and families....

Dia 42: Santa Ana de Chiautempan, 0 kms
Last night, got to know Rodrigo´s family. They talked about the difficulties of life here and some of the conditions that make it so. Apparently, a couple of generations ago, the economy was local agriculture. Fruits, vegetables, nuts, etc. Lots of work...Then, large companies (mostly US, but also Euro) came in and started buying up land to build factories. This practice expanded under NAFTA. They cut the orchards and changed to an industrial economy. Only problem, the factories pay very poorly, 500 pesos ($50) a week for 60+ hours. So now, the men feel the need to go to the US for work. Often, they are gone for years. Some never return. The wives and children are left behind. It´s going to have social repercussions for generations if we don´t find a correction. The big companies have achieved both a cheap workforce here in Mexico, and a cheap workforce in the states.... On Rodrigo´s street, All the men are either in the states, or are planning to go. Today, Marco, who was in Durango and received a Smylie bike from us, is determind to show me around his town. We went to the poorest barrio, where people squeek by selling recyclables they´ve salvaged from the mounds of garbage accumulating in poorer neighborhoods. Then, we went by and visited Guadalupe´s family before loading up the rest of the fam and heading off to see the ruins and Pyramid at Cacaxtla. What a view of the volcanoes! THe site was interesting, although the largest pyramid was closed as part of the roof had fallen in. An hour in a van with the whole family trying to talk to me was more tiring that riding my bike!

Dia 43: Same
Massaged the noodle and went to the center to look for a good chain. Also, I´m fixing all the family´s bikes and I need parts. the best chain availble in all of Mexico is a Shimano 105...... I´ve now checked a dozen places and will have to settle for this. After 3,500 kms, my sram chain was wasted!! Tonia took me to her parent´s house as everyone wants to meet me. They weave wool blankets with manual looms. Amazing dance as both hands and feet have to work in perfect timing. They let me try it and I immediately tangled the thread. Tonia´s dad gave me a beautiful wool bag that I must make room for. They wanted to give me a whole blanket, but it´s a little bulky for the already loaded noodle....Each of the family members deserve mention and I do have them in my original notes, however, I must abbreviate...

Dia 44: Same
Had a nice conversation with Rodrigo´s wife, Bety this AM about god and religion. They want to know if I´m Catholic. I can´t lie, so I explain my beliefs as respectfully as possible.... I´m not Catholic, I´m a cyclist!!!!

Getting so many invites, gonna have to turn some down... The ladies in the plastic bag factory where Marco works, want me to come by to drink beers with them at 4. They want me to teach them english. No problem, a half hour should do it!!!! Met Doña Sebastiana last night at the house. She´s a Nahautl indian and a friend of the fam. Saw her again this AM. She speaks to me in Nahautl and I answer in english, then we both laugh and translate in spanish.

Dia 45: Same
Last night, we went to Tlaxcala center, where I saw the famous murals in the government building. Exceptional quality artwork that tells the story of Tlaxcala´s indigenous history on into the conquest. Later, we went to an even older church than I´d seen so far. 1520!!! After slaughtering 75% of the natives, the Spanish wasted little time in covering their ceremonial sites with massive churches. We also climbed a monster stairway that was constructed in the 1560´s. After returning to Rodrigo´s castle, another family with a son in DURANGO came by, the mom was desperate for news of life there. Unfortunately, I did´t remember meeting the young man, who´s name is Rafa. He works at McDonalds. There are at least 10 men from this barrio who are living and working in Durango right now. They are cooking your dinners and washing your plates,,,,,,,to provide for their wives and children. They are mostly, good people, just like everywhere. Please treat them respectfully when you meet them, their mothers and fathers would thank you. Guadalupe´s brother Rufino came by and got me this AM to bring me to his family´s house for breakfast. We went by their "colcha" factory where the blanket Lupe gave me was made. Rufino explained about the hardships of making a profit as his material costs keep rising, but he´s unable to raise his price as the competition with Chinese-made cloths put him in a tough market. He claims to make 40 cents on each blanket..... Went to his house and was served major portions of everything from Atole to tamales, etc, etc. Had a deep converstion about politics, corruption and relations between the US and Mex. Of course this included the popular topic of immigration.

Days 37-39

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:16:00 +0000

Dia 37: San Juan del Rio to Nopala, 62 kms.
What a diference from yesterday! Last night I decided to change course and forget about trying to visit Mexico City. Picked a new route and woke up refreshed and relieved that I wasn't going to return to "the big road." I've got an awesome book of maps that are quite detailed. I'm stinkin' done with the interstates and the red roads, and will now concentrate on the skinny yellow roads, which are the most primitive. The frenetic pace of the big roads has steered me this way, or is my guardian angel responsable? Anyway, I must comment on how ridiculous it is to receive directions in Mexico. Everyone answers as if they know exactly which way I should go, even if they have no clue! I guess they don't want to appear clueless, so they make up answers to my inquiries. I've taken to asking 4, 5, or 6 people which way until I get a consensus. The most extreme example to date occured this AM. While leaving San Juan, I'd already received a consensus, but decided to ask a street vendor, who was selling I don't know what on the very street that I was asking for, Calle Universidad. She looked puzzled (a sure clue!) She tried to send me down the road another km! I turned anyway and asked another person to confirm. Yes, this is the way to "El Sitio." I was warned by several people that the road to El Sitio was a hard climb, and they were right. The good news is that as soon as I reached the edge of San Juan, the traffic stopped altogther. What a relief!!! In El Sitio, the road turned to rock. Nicely laid out in a pattern, but not cut stone. It was grapefruit sized and was rattling my bones. Many wares are advertised via microfone, with the speaker attached to the roof of a truck. While on my way out of Dodge, I listened to a fruit salesman who announced his produce with prices in song. It was quite entertaining and I needed to replenish, so I stopped him and asked to make a purchase. His name was Francisco and we wound up talking for about a half hour. I chose some oranges, mandarines, guayabas etc. and he refused payment. I asked about the road surface and he informed me that he only knew the road as far as Tlaxcalilla, which was 10 km down the road. He´d never been any farther than that even though he lived there all his life! It was the rock road he told me, so I stopped under a shade tree and changed to my fat tires. Much better!! I wound up missing the unmarked turn to Tlaxcalilla and landed in El Carmen, which placed me on one of the dreaded red roads for the next 20 km. The red jobbers are the 2 laners without any shoulder whatsoever. Tractor trailers use these roads, even double trailers and when 2 meet at the same moment as I, I have to dive. It wasn't so bad, cause I had my fatties on... Also, sometimes there's a double track that I can shred happily. Stopped in Llano Largo for lunch and had an excellent barbecued chicken, served up by another nice family. Just as in the states, the cities are impersonal. I´m so glad to be back in the country, where the air is good and the locals are friendly. Excuse me, it´s dinner time................... OK, I´m back. Good soup. Washed down with my favorite 100% Agave beverage! Now, I´m pretty kicked back... back to the story, I stocked up in Nopala and cruised to look for a good camp. About 5km later, there it was in the middle of a corn field, a little storage shed protected by stone walls and corn stalks. I´m under a roof tonight, which is comforting as I´m watching various t-storms in the distance. Saw a sweet shooting star in the N sky. So great to be camping again!!

Dia 38: Nopala to Atitalaquia, 62 kms.
Woke up to a thick fog, so I lingered at camp, cooked another hearty breakfast, then sailed as the sun broke through. Passed through lots of picturesque villages on my new chosen route toward Pachuca. As I asked directions, people kept asking me if I was headed to Tula, which I wasn´t. I finally thought to ask "why, what's in Tula?" Was told of the ancient Toltec pyramid and temples and decided to change course again. On to Tula! This will allow me to also visit Teotihuacan, which has even more famous archeology. Today, at a confusing, unmarked intersection in the middle of nowhere, I met a campesino walking down the road. We greeted and I asked him which way. He told me, we talked a bit, and as I began to ride off, he said "the least we can do is to be helpful to one another." It reminded me of another old vendor I encountered back in Santa Maria del Rio. We exchanged good mornings as he nodded in approval at my mode of travel. Then, he added, "if we all used less, there'd be more for everyone." Wisdom is not limited to the educated... Later as I neared Tula, I saw a bunch of bicycles that reminded me of Bailey's stack in front of the "Project." I did a double-take and saw the bike shop which was hidden around the corner. The proprietor saw me and waved me in. I whirled and parked the noodle in line with another of his many stacks of bikes. His name is Arturo Martinez and the first thing he said was "cycling is really beautiful." We agreed that it was too bad that more people don't realize how awesome it is to ride a bike. I told him my story and he proudly showed me his shop. He lent me a rag and filled my lube bottle with 3 in 1 oil and refused payment. I rode on to Tula and found the entrance to the Toltec site. Met some folks on the way in and of course had to tell my story again. The guard at the entrance also had to know the story. The folks I'd just met raved about my adventure and I was given a free pass. Are you beginning to see a pattern here? The site was stunning! 3 massive pyramids dating as far back as the 3rd century. After leaving Tula, the route to the small road was confusing, so I stopped and asked a man which way. His wife immediately ran out and offered me a cold drink. They clearly explained the way. They ran an electrical parts store, which they invited me into as they introduced me to their baby daughter. While there, I noticed that they sold 3mm nylon twine, which I needed as I´d lost mine somewhere. I ordered up 12 meters. They also refused payment and made me take another cold drink as I left! I rode on to Atitalaquia to look for a room as I needed to wash clothes and my butt´s sore.

Dia 39: Atitalaquia to Teotihuacan, 70 kms.
The road out of town is another one of those nasty 2-laner types. Not my favorite! Good thing I´ve kept my fatties on as I can get creative whenever necessary (often!). As usual, I'm meeting mostly nice people who are giving me thumbs up. I wonder if this means "fxxx you!" in Mexico! Just kidding... While passing through a pueblo, a motorist made a cycling motion and nodded approval. Later, I saw this same guy stopped at the edge of town and he again smiled and waved. Later, while entering the next pueblo, here he was again, standing near the top of a climb, handing me up a bottle of cold gatorade. Of course, I stopped to tell him "the story." He had a couple of buddies with him and they told me they are mountain bikers and work in a shop in the previous town. They want me to return so they can show me all their favorite rides. They told me of a massive hot spring that creates a river which is on one of their rides. We parted ways and I rode on to Zumpango, where I stopped for tacos. As almost always, the vendors asked the obvious questions... their customers also were curious. I overdid it on the chilies (habaneros) and sweated and cried as I told "the story" for the umpteenth time. They told me I am the first travelling cyclist they'd ever seen there. Cool, I beat the Euros!! I asked the price and they refused. The generosity in this area of Mexico is crazy!! So, I moved on toward Teotihuacan... Arrived at the main gate and actually had to pay! Further in, another gate where I was told, "No Bicycles." I tried to explain that my life is hanging on this bicycle and I can't just leave it unattended in the parking lot with so many people around. He motioned me to leave if I didn't like the rules here. He was the first asshole I've met in Mexico! The vendors told me "just leave it over there," while licking their chops. So I went to the administration building to see if I could stash my bike there. At this gate, another policeman said, "No Way!" Asshole number 2! Returned to the main gate to ask them if I could leave my bike inside the guard house. "No. You can leave it over there," as they motioned toward the fence. Numbers 3 and 4!!! It´s an asshole epidemic! So I convinced them to give me a refund (they didn't want to, but finally gave in). I rode on to look for another entry gate and found one a km up the road. As I rode up, the guard, who was accompanied by another policeman, began by asking me "the questions." I answered with "the story," and we talked for awhile with no mention of an entry fee. After 10-15 minutes of chatting and laughing, I asked, "How much?" "Oh, no, no, for you, it´s free!" Then they insisted on pictures with me and of me as I tried to pry myself away to get a closer look at the magnificent pyramids. I entered with my noodle at my side... After checking out the site, I rode on to San Martin, where I asked if there was good place to camp around here. They replied "sure, right over there, where we work." It was literally in the shadow of one of the pyramids. It also was near a building which wound up being the police station, where I introduced myself to the cops (thank god the assholes weren´t there!) It began to rain hard, so the cops invited me to stay under a tarp where they kept all their bicycles. I felt right at home! Stayed mostly dry, and slept with the stray dogs, which are everywhere in Mexico. During the night, as new cops came on duty, they'd come out to hear "the story," which I´m getting really good at telling. I have another page written for this day, but I´ll spare you. This trip is so much more than a bicycle ride to Costa Rica!!!!!

Days 34-36

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:13:00 +0000

Dia 34: 20k before San Luis Potosi to Santa Maria del Rio, 72 kms.
Slept hard after the beers, etc last night. Rose to a continuation of the wind, blowing rather fiercely out of the S-SW. Repeated my AM routine of cooking breakfast, coffee and re-packing my bags. I'm getting more efficient every time I do this. Cruised into San Luis Potosi to look for my friend Rafa Olvera. No luck - old phone number... Looked around the historic district and half the day escaped me. Had lunch of "enchiladas potosinas" and rode on toward Queretaro. It's the main road and heavily traveled but at least it has a wide shoulder... Found a cheap room at the Hotel Tejado in Santa Maria del Rio, where I had an interesting encounter with a girl I'll call "Sofia." She asked me not to write about her story, so I won't. It's an amazing one and I'll tell you in person someday... She taught me all the vulgar words she knows in Spanish. We laughed a lot!

Dia 35: Santa Maria to Queretaro, 160 kms.
Would love to write more about "Sofia," really funny person with an amazing story... boogied early today and on the first climb, I stopped to strip a layer. I saw a couple big double semis crawling up the hill and hurried to stash my jersey so I could hang on for a free ride. Finally mounted the noodle with a 100 mtr gap to close. Sprinted (?) and out of breath caught a good hold and cheated to the top. The least these truckers can do is pull me once in a while as usually, they´re whizzing by my ear at a nerve wracking pace. Don´t you think? The wind had died overnight and was still most of the day, which helped account for the big kms today. The terrain began to roll a bit today as I passed from San Luis Potosi to Guanajuato to Queretaro. 3 states in one day, New Record! I'm riding the "big road" now. It's one of the routes to Mexico city, one of the most populated in the world, 30 friggin' million people! So, the traffic is increasing... at least it's 4 lanes with a wide shoulder... I'm not wild about riding this route, but for now it feels safe and I'm making good kms. Had my first aggresive act directed toward me today. A passing truck passenger chucked a plastic bottle at me, but his aim was poor... It's still desert but the landscape is hinting at turning green. I can smell a touch of humidity also, which is welcome to my parched nostrils. The traffic toward Queretaro started getting really thick, so my guardian angel directed me toward a mellower route and I cruised into the city center and found a cheap room at the hotel Marques. In this area, it's getting too populated to find mellow places to camp. Gonna go check out the historic district.

Dia 36: Queretaro to San Juan del Rio, 58 kms.
After dinner, went for a stroll around the historic district. There were 2 churches on my street dating back to the 1600's. One is the oldest in all of Mexico. Lots of cool fountains and the most awesome aqueduct I've ever seen. The city streets are predictably narrow with cut stone pavement. Super quality constuction. Hung out till noon today with no desire to ride. My legs feel dead. Didn't want to ride, but didn't want to stay either, so I chamoised-up and rode on. I found the old road and stayed on it as long as I could, but eventually had to rejoin the main 4 lane toward Mexico City. I am trying to get to the edge of the city to meet my friend Palomo, whom I'd met in la vuelta Chihuahua. It's such a trip to observe Mexico as I roll by! I can feel the energy of the city already, still 160 kms away! To be honest, today was the first day since leaving Durango that truly sucked. Too many cars, buses, semis, noise, pedestrians, garbage, exhaust, dead animals, vendors, exits, entries... and then I flatted! All this with little desire to ride and zero juice in my legs. So I limped into San Juan del Rio with my tail between my legs. It was such a bad day that even my guardian angel deserted me and I was at the mercy of the locals... Just couldn't find the flow and the first people I asked for directions to an inexpensive room sent me on a wild goose chase. The one-way streets were all headed in the wrong direction, so I found myself going "conta via" at every turn. Got to where the cheap room was supposed to be, asked again, and was sent to another part of town! Got there, only to be told that the only cheap rooms here are back toward the dreaded main highway. Finally found a place as darkness fell, showered and walked off to find dinner. Ate my first "sope" which is another in a growing list of dishes that are all made with the same ingredients! Corn tortillas, beans, meat (of unknown origin at times), red and green salsa. Maybe some lettuce and onions (in the better places). The really good places have a production line that begins with a bowl of corn masa, followed by a hand press and then the grill. Your table is next in line, or just your mouth, because many places don't have tables.

Days 31-33

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:11:00 +0000

Dia 31: Durango to Zacatecas, 42 kms.
Last night went to bed a bit (lot) concerned about my choice of route. That stinkin' 50 k yesterday was a nightmare! The map shows only one road from here to Zacatecas, and it's the same freakin' road as yesterday. Pondered the wisdom of continuing on this road, or perhaps looking at the coastal route. Anyway, my intuition led me in the right direction and I've chosen to stay on Mex 45. Stopped for breakfast at a roadside food vendor and a big truck pulled up. Had to move the noodle to make room for him to park. The driver and his worker got out and we started talking. As you know, everyone wants to know where I'm going, etc. I told them I'm headed for Zacatecas and they asked, "on the bike?" I said yes, of course! They began to warn me in 3 part harmony about how dangerous this stretch of road is. I asked about an alternate route to Zac. and they replied, "None." The driver offered to throw my bike on top of his load and take me there. I graciously declined. He practically insisted as his helper and the woman who owned the food stand began to tell me about how many fatalities this road is responsible for. W-o further thought, I accepted his offer to take me to Zacatecas, 300 kms to the southeast. You know it's unlike me to travel this way, but I prefer to survive this trip and after seeing the section of "hell road," I'm happy I took the ride. Live to ride another day.... the woman at the food stand's name is Maricela and she gave me a scorpion mojo for protection. It's now mounted on the noodle, along with my custom spoke card. A huge bonus to accepting this ride is that I made a great new friend. Carlos, the driver and I had an awesome conversation for the next 4 hours about all kinds of topics. I learned a lot about life in Mexico. If you want, you can come here and bust your ass for 12 hours a day to make 100 pesos ($10.) Carlos also, being a trucker, knew about all the roads I'm considering and had plenty of recommendations. I got out with 35 k to go to Zacatecas as the road widened and I wanted the opportunity to call my friend Juan and give him warning of my early arrival. Juan and his wife Hilda are putting my up for 2 nights. They fed me beers and dinner as we checked out the cyclery website. Juan was Lance Armstrong's personal mechanic for years. I met him in the Vuelta a Chihuahua. More super-fine people! We`re off to "el centro" to check out the historic district. Zacatecas was founded in the early 1500's, has stone roads and monstrous cathedrals much more impressive than Durango, Dgo. And we think our Durango is old!!!!!

Dia 32: Zacatecas, 0 kms.
Wow, what a beautiful city! I'm floored that I've never met anyone who's spoken of this marvelous place. Don't have enough $$$ to travel to Europe? Than come to central Mexico! It's reminiscent of old Europe. The city center is well preserved (no McDonalds! or other gringo garbage vendors). Stone roads with incredible colonial architecture. Rich gold and silver mines funded the construction. the Spanish must have really pumped some wealth out of this place! We visited the mtn above the city, named "La Bufa." It makes an eerie sound when the wind blows hard. We heard it while we were there. We went on to visit some amazing pre-Columbian ruins named "La Quemada" that makes Chaco canyon look small. Different masonry style than our Anazazi, huge in scope, I'll show you the pix someday... the aquaduct, the bullfighting ring, this place deserves a return visit....

Dia 33: Zacatecas to San Luis Potosi, almost 170 kms.
Early start after a monster breakfast at Juan and Hilda`s place. I call it the "Hotel Lujan." Churros, toast, eggs, coffee, good rest and an awesome experience in Zacatecas. Today's ride started w' a big shoulder, 4 lanes and very little traffic. I even had a stretch for awhile where 2 lanes were closed to traffic, I shredded it joyfully. Then I hit the supposed 40 km section of 2 lane. "The Gnarl Zone." It wasn't quite as bad as the stretch north of Durango, but almost. Instead of maybe 16' of width, it was like 17'6". Whoopie! It only tempted me to actually ride it in 2 way traffic.... Had to dive at least 50 times to save my hide! At times, I ride the dirt doubletrack beside the highway to calm my nerves. Even had a nice section of singletrack today. So much better than running "The Gauntlet." So glad I chose to use these Conti Top contact tires. Thanks Wade!! No flats so far this side of the border!! Had 3 in los estados unidos.... I was maybe half way through the 40 k of hell, when I pulled over to fill my H2O bottles from my nalgene. Instantly, a trucker appeared, offering to fill my bottles. His name is Francisco. I got his pic. He wants to be in my story. There you go, Francisco! You're in. He told me no more than 8 k more of the "Hell Road." 24 k later, the 4- lane started again. I rode the closed section for another 30 k or so until all 4 lanes were open. At this point, there was an actual bike lane in the middle with a sign, "Solo Ciclistas." Crazy, strong, gusty sidewind today that tried to steer me into traffic..... At times I was leaning at a heavy angle to compensate. Bought beer and food supplies and rode on to look for a good campsite to enjoy the full moon. Ate well, drank 4 beers, howled at the moon, and went to sleep...

Days 28-30

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:08:00 +0000

Dia 28: La resolana to Rodeo, 118.5 kms.
I finished the straight section on the map. Must have been 100 miles w-o a turn! Pretty flat, too. Always with mountains in the distance. Today I got to these distant mtns. Went over a pass and descended many thousands of ft into a beautiful greenish valley w live water! The straight, flat part was a high plateau w desert vegitation. Nice and cool on the pass, but hot as hell in the valley. They grow peaches here, as well as pecans and produce in general. Above was all grazing. Staying at the hotel Garcia in Rodeo. More apparently nice people, although the man seems drunk or high or something. Not sure he's trustworhty as I heard him arguing with his wife about charging me too little for the room 100 pesos. The room didn´t lock and I felt like I had more $ than I left with.... On the way, I had a nice chat w the proprietor of the little tienda in LA UNION. He told me it's been very dry for many years. Most of the people in the pueblo have left for los Estados Unidos for lack of work. Also, their cattle have been quarenteened for some kind of non existant disease, according to him. Anyway, most of the casitas there looked empty and abandoned. I think I´m about 175 km from the city of Durango. Not gonna make it tomorrow as I have a few mtns in the way. I like Durango, the people are very laid back and interested in my trip. One guy told me that sometimes, cycling tourists like myself pass by here, but all are euros or Canadians. He said I´m the 1st United Statesian. They don´t call us Americans cause they are AMERicans, too. How embarassing to be so close to the US, but our cyclists don´t arrive there! Arrived in Rodeo, it´s a pretty old pueblo. I need to take some pix in the AM.

Dia 29: Rodeo to Medina, 98.1 kms
Today, I had to overcome my 1st feelings of doubt about this trip. Headwind, the invisable foe was out in force. Also, doubts about the man at the Hotel GARCIA..... Woke up with visions of making the city of Durango after a good sleep. The wind changed my visions to dred... Started flat in the Nazas valley w interesting small pueblitos along the way. One, named Leandro Valle had the ruins of a huge old church and numerous deteriorating houses. Obvious it´s heyday had passed long ago. Then, I climbed... into a strong wind. No one warned me about that! I gueass I was going better than I thought as I was making descent kms. The weather was unsettled, looked like rain. The clouds were welcome to escape the heat. Had lunch in Roche and after that, everything changed... for the better. I met Jose Rivas, the bikin´aluminum recyclist. I have his pic. We talked and then sailed, he lives in San Juan del Rio. Later, passed a forest of huge prickly pear or Nopal. The locals eat the leaves and the fruit. Met a vaquero and asked to take his pic, which I DID. I need to figure out how to send the pix....... Much of the traffic in Durango is on horseback. Vaqueros riding their fences. Bought dinner supplies in Donato GUERRA. The tienda had some stuff, but no beer or meat. So I rode on to the Ëxpendio where they sell only one brand, Modelo. Talked to the guys there and they directed me to the carnicaria. Only problem was that there was no sign... So I missed it and had to return. A local man told me which house and to knock on the door. An old gruff looking butcher answered and looked bothered, but he opened for me. Bought some excellent beef and rode on to find camp. Found an inviting doubletrack and then it turned to singletrack w a bike track on it. It felt like home! Decided on a spot, only to look up and see a vaquero riding toward me at a gallop. I rode over to him to ask permission to camp there. He said he had a better place for me, an abandoned adobe. He directed me w his permission, I accepted his offer to stay there. His name is Oscar Guerrero and he´s a proud campesino who told me his life´s work is on the side of that mountain, and he pointed toward the beautiful mtn to our east. I´m writing this from the old adobe. It´s perfect! Incredible sunset, nice fire out back and my own humble house for the night! The moon is building toward full, I´ve been out for a full cycle now. Keeping time by the moon, this is my new pace....

Dia 30: Medina to Durango, 71.4 kms.
Sketchiest section of road yet! Same type of road as I´ve encountered all through Mexico so far, only now there´s a lot of traffic. Big trucks and such. 2 lane, narrow w NO SHOULDER. thankfully, there was a horse-bike track that paralels the road and I used it wherever possible. Whenever 2 trucks arrived at the same moment as I, I had to literally dive off the road to avoid instant death or dismemberment. Just like working on a Campi chain!!! The great Elliot knows what I´m talking about!! I dove at least 2 dozen times today. At times to save my own skin and sometimes as a courtesy to the driver´s, who really don´t want to slow down.... I now know why there´s so many roadside shrines! I´m gonna re-evaluate my route as I care not to continue on this type of road. Anyway, last night was awesome! To be offered to stay in a house for free, by a stranger, in his country... especially after my experience in my own Durango, where I´m priced out of the market by 2nd, 3rd, 4th home owners who don´t contribute to the community... It´s all coming clear now. Still in the desert here. It´s low and warm. This Durango is a large city w very old churhes and public buildings. Gonna go look for an internet cafe......

Days 22-27

Bicycle Bob — Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:05:00 +0000

Dia 22: Creel
Today I took my second day off... to write to you guys, etc. I cleaned my bike (the noodle), repaired my leaking stove, washed my clothes....

Dia 23: Creel to Bajisochi, 101.8 kms.
The Hotel Posada folks, Amalia y Luis Enrique wound up being super nice to me. Today I got an early start after breakfast at Lupitas. Made tracks for a while `til I started dropping into the Big Canyons. More inspiring country today. Gorgeous valleys with orchards and simple houses of adobe, brick and wood. Everyone has a wood cook stove and most of the places are occupied with smoke exiting the chimineys. Mostly wild, empty country. I`m in the Tarahumara area now. Instead of saying Hola, it`s "kuira." I made it to Bajisochi about an hour before dark, so I had plenty of time to search for a good camp spot. Found a nice one on a high ridge and had another great sunset.

Dia 24: Bajisochi to Guachochi, 58.3 kms.
Woke up and while lighting my stove, a Tarahumara on horseback rode by on a nearby trail that I hadn`t seen the night before. So much for the private spot! No problem, we just waved at each other and went about our business. Slept well, ate plenty and felt great to ride, but I don`t want to go beyond Guachochi w'o stocking up and re-charging my energy as the next stretch looks a little daunting. 197 kms on the map w only 1 pueblo showing at 98 kms. At least it`s half way. Today was mildly hilly and mostly down although I encountered my first meaningful headwind. The last 2 days have been hazy, which makes me wonder if there`s a fire somewhere in the region.... I`ve seen very little evidence of fire, even though it`s very dry. In fact I`ve had no rain since leaving over 3 weeks ago. Found a room here for 160 pesos ($16) with a little boy named Mario who was full of curiousity and wanted to ride my bike. I let him sit on it and took his pic. I`m still in the big pines here near the Sinforosa. It`s the rim of the deepest canyon in the region, more than 6,000 ft deep! I went there last month w some of the other mechanics so I`m not going this time. It`s 17 k of terrible road and I`m too lazy to change my tires. I`m not making as much ground as I thought I would. It`s because this canyon country is so steep and slow going on the "Noodle." Physically, I feel fine although tired at times. It`s hard to eat enough for all the calories I`m burning. I`d really like to take a slower pace, but I want to get to Costa Rica by early Jan....

Dia 25: Guachochi to Balleza, 113.8 kms.
New top speed! 70.8 km la hora. Today, I dropped off the Sierra Tarahumara. Big winds at my back! Was a bit sketchy at times when I crossed over ridge tops and switchbacks. It's still amazingly scenic, although I`m now in the desert again. Live oaks w desert scrub, etc. Dead grasses everywhere as it's the dry season. It rains in June, July, August. Last night, I stayed at the hotel Mansion. The name does not fit! The heater is out of gas, so I have to dry my clothes on the roof. This was fine til it started to rain at 5AM. I went out, retreived my clothes and stowed the noodle under cover. Went back to bed, kind of. I was worried about the rain and cold, which is what I encountered as I left Guachochi. The rain stopped and the cycling was again phenomenal w curvacious roads w'o effort due to the downhill tailwind. I guess I must have paid my dues somewhere along the line..... Found a great campspot again, private w plenty of firewood. Stocked up in Balleza w good food which I'm cooking as I write. Big sky sunset, growing moon and another nice campfire... Wish you were here!!!

Dia 26: Balleza to Parral, 88.9 kms.
Met Roberto Sanchez on my way into town. He recommended the Hotel Fe. Up and down - mellow to start until I reached Puerto Justo, where the pavement turned to mierda and the traffic increased. Had to dismount and get off the road a few times as whenever 2 large vehicles meet at the same spot as me, something has got to give. 8 km from Parral the road improved and I cruised in early. Went to find my friends from Yecora, Francisco and Mingo to see if they had room for me, which they didn't. Tried to call Olivia and Lourdes, my friends from La Vuelta a Chihuahua, but her number was wrong.... Found the cheapest hotel yet 58 pesos ($5.80). It was barely worth the price as it turned out to be loud and illicit. Met Rosi...

Dia 27: Parral to La Resolana, 138.1 kms.
Entered the state of Durango today. At the state line, I met Lorenzo, who sold me good food and then gifted me more. He was very friendly and interested in my trip and then more friendly people showed up to support me. We took pix and I cruised into Durango. Last night, I made the mistake of staying at the cheapest hotel in "El centro" de Parral. The prostitutes pestered me to "echar el palo" $20. They were all so skanky!!! Felt uncomfortable and left town early to make some good kms. I think it's my biggest day so far... The terrain has flattened out a lot, but the wind was mild and no factor. Stopped for dinner makings in a nice little puebluito named Torreon de Cañas. Saw like 10 beautiful girls there in less than a half hour! The proprietor of the store there where I stopped was kind and gave me a cold Gatorade. Nicest tienda I've been in yet. Great produce and cold beer! Met a vaquero outsite the tienda who had been to our Durango. Everybody there was interested in my trip and friendly. Got inspected at the military checkpoint this time... no problem! Had a race w a couple young boys on horseback that pushed me a long for a couple f Km. One asked me, in english "Where you from?" Everyone wants to know where I`m going and where I`m from. So far, the road has been 2 lane, no shoulder, but hardly any traffic. So nice!